Advanced Edge Jointing Techniques with a Wood Jointer
Advanced Edge Jointing Techniques with a Wood Jointer
The wood jointer is arguably the most important machine in the woodwork shop because it is the foundation of all the wood you use that is to be straight and flat, so here are some important tips to note when edge jointing wood, like using your moisture meter to check for dry wood, the how you move the wood through the jointer, and understanding the other elements that can work against you the can affect how the finished, jointed wood may no turn out the way you hoped.
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Wood Jointer Tips for Setting Up and Using a Jointer: https://youtu.be/YbvPVz9NDxk
Tips to Straighten Boards and Squaring Lumber: https://youtu.be/KQoY_fOxn2A
Make an Edge Jointer Jig Sled/ Edge Jointer Safety Push Block:
5 Quick Thickness Jointer Planer Hacks: https://youtu.be/XnfMAL8BwTA
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Read More about Edge Jointing Techniques with a Wood Jointer here – https://bit.ly/33NYurS
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Thank you! That is probably the best video I’ve seen regarding jointer tips and trust me I’ve watched a ton. I can never joint my wood well and I have spent days, and I mean days trying to adjust my machine. It’s to the point that I no longer use it and the mere sight of it makes me shudder. These are very useful so I think I’ll take another stab at it! I was getting front to back tapering and I think it may be because I wasn’t shifting my downward pressure to the outfeed table. The only other issue I was hoping you would have touched on was why would you get tapering from side to side after multiple passes.
Hi Colin
I have a planer thicknesser here in the UK identical to the one youβre using, but yours appears to have a spiral cutter block. This machine is marketed by different companies: may I ask the name of yours, and can it be upgraded with a spiral block? Mine has just two standard blades. Thank you
Thanks Colin, another thing or 2 learned! Best regards from Belgium
You are not right about the long boards. First of all you need to have an bed extensions to joint a long boards. Second of all even if you turn around the board like you have shown but use it on a infeed table, which is too short, you will still end up with board which is not flat as it will lift up itself when pushed through the infeed table – because of the bowed shape without support at the end it will be hanging out of the table.
I have a hard time getting my fence absolutely square… It’s a combo which looks very similar to yours, but what happens is; every time I have the fence square, when I tighten the fastener on the back, it pulls it back. I tried setting it up, hanging over a bit so it will be square when I tighten it, but it keeps pulling it back too much… So it’s pretty useless ow, but maybe I’m doing something wrong
Thanks so very much for this great information! Woodwork Web Rocks!
Good video Colin. I was told that you should also cut with the grain flow of the wood.
Hmm, I thought jointers were only for edges. If I wanted to work on the faces why wouldnβt I want to use a planer.
hey Colin thanks, great advice. Where in Canada are you? I am on Vancouver Island (I think you are too) what moisture do you generally use for this area? I can’t seem to get my wood below about 13-14% Even if I get it kiln dried once it is out it then absorbs more moisture and ends up back around 10-12% at the lowest.
Very informative and clearly presented. Thank you very much.
Thanks for this Colin. As a beginner woodworker, I just picked up a jointer. These tips are going to be very useful for me. Vids like this are the reasons I love your content. Please keep these coming.
Thanks Colin! All of your videos are good and helpful. This one is one of your best!
This is one of the best videos on use of a jointer. Thank you.
Thanks for the info this old dog did learn some new tricks
Absolutely the WORST video I have seen about EDGE JOINTING! 1st, ALL of your examples show FACING a board, NOT EDGE JOINTING. Edge Jointing is done on the EDGE of a board, NOT the FACE of the board. 2nd, your explanation of how to set the jointer’s knives makes NO sense. The cutters on a jointer should be set to the height of the OUTFEED table. That way, the height of the infeed table will determine the amount of cut, the outfeed will support the jointed board coming off of the jointer. 3rd, What is with that fence on your jointer? It obstruct the movement of the operator of the jointer when feeding the work stock. Besides, the rear fence is what counts. There really isn’t any need for a fence on the outside edge of a workpiece. The workpiece can be held against the rear fence by applying rearward pressure on the workpiece with the pusher pads.
Great information!
Great tips man thanks for sharing your experience
Thanks for sharing
π. Good tips. Is there a relationship between bed length and board length? From your point about bowed boards, it would seem like bed length would not matter.
My owners manual says the knives should be level with the outfeed table. That seems to make more sense to me. Why should the knives be slightly higher?
hello..I made a safety guide after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
Great video Colin Jim.
Great demo & information Colin! Very nice seeing a condensed summary of what I already knew! Thanks & be safe………. ππππ
My jointer has an adjustable outfeed table. My question (if anyone can help) is can’t I seat the knives so they are level with each other, then adjust the outfeed table to them?
Thanks! I’ve had my powermatic 8 inch jointer for many years, but have moved twice in the last few. Working on a loft bed at moment. I’ll certainly try your advice.
Thanks for the update
Great tips, I am almost ready to start jointing some wood… I just need there jointer now π
Good video.. Like always. Thanks for sharing this with us.
thank you ππ
Now I know that moisture meters exist. Thanx.
What if you want to flatten a long piece of wood? Use a hand plane first to get it closer to flat before using a jointer?
That drawing you did on the end of the wood was misleading. On the bottom center there will be almost no wood removed (it would remove a lot at the bottom edges). The top center would remove a lot of wood (as you said, it would take off the hump). But you made it look like it would take off a lot of wood in the center on both the top and the bottom. That is wrong. The center would only take off a lot of wood on the top. In fact, for a cupped board if you want to know how much the thickness will be removed after jointing and planing, a good estimate it provided by measuring the depth of the cup on ONE SIDE ONLY.
Love the various tips keep em coming
I have also found that if you dress lumber or even glue up a blank that has I little higher moisture content, simply lay them on a flat surface and put small sticks underneath them. This will let air flow all around it so the moisture will disperse evenly. I used to work for a custom cabinet shop and we glued up a tabletop from reclaimed lumber one morning. We took it out of the clamps later that evening and left it lying flat on the table. The next morning it had cupped and bowed because air couldn’t get to the bottom side of the tabletop; thus all the moisture dispersed from the topside and caused it to cup
Thank you, Colin. A lot of good tips in here. Getting good results on my jointer has always been a problem. Maybe now I will get better results. I now have to find your video on setting the blades to be slightly higher than the outfeed table.
Never saw that on YouTube thanks
Thanks for sharing these great tips!
Thanks , was very helpful .
Another useful video full of important information for novice woodworkers like me ππΌ
Awesome Video and Tips!!!
You are a very good teacher.
Im trying to joint edge some redwood a couple inches past 4 feet. I cannot get a good straight edge for a table top glue up. It has a gap between the boards and it has been driving me crazy! Its a 6" benchtop grizzly jointer
Very good details. Thank you
Legend Colin!
Sorry, but it does not make sense to me how it is different if the cutter is level with outfeed or is slightly above it. The cutter being above the outfeed is conceptually equivalent to the infeed being that much lower than the cutter. So, in essence, the only difference between cutter being level with outfeed or being above it is how much lower you will need to set your infeed.
Best post ever for jointing.
Thanks!!
Thanks for the great tips!!
Very interesting. Very good. Thank you.
This is very helpful in understanding what to do and not to do… one day I will get a jointer, but I still want to know about this subject. This is one of those videos that ended too soon; it could have gone on easily 20 minutes longer and I would have watched every bit of it. Great job Colin! Always happy to watch whenever you post your videos!
Thanks for the knowledge, Mr. Colin !!!!!!!!!!!!!