Baldor 510 toolroom grinder
Truing up the mounting plates on a 510, WARNING: stunt machining, kids, dont try this at home.
Truing up the mounting plates on a 510, WARNING: stunt machining, kids, dont try this at home.
hi i did the same thing on my 1800rpm baldor with a lathe bit. to get a quick and dirty lower rpm i toggled the on off switch every 5s or so. it was good enough to get rid of chatter.
Great video. I need to do the same thing. My mounting nuts run true, unlike Kieth’s. I would be concerned about parallelism with the bearing face. You trimmed off the clamped parallel. If not perfect, you are cutting a taper.
I have no problem facing the aluminum hub but I have to verify 90 degrees to the z.
Thanks
excellent post, thank you !
Great video!
What happened on the model J Johnson bandsaw rebuild? I would love to see an update. Thanks
Where did you get the wheels ??
Stan if your lathe is big enough take the motor off the stand but leave it assembled and the hubs still on and run it between centres then you have control over the speed ,did the same when I made my grinding spindle for my quorn
Great subject Stan. Thanks for taking the time.
Great video, Stan! Lots of creativity and ideas outside the box! I love the little vice, nice touch with the burnished finish, very attractive little tool!
Oh yeah, meat for a hacker. Did that on my HF Baldor clone, but with cemented carbide triangle. Worked, can’t remember excessive chatter.
Nicely done Stan. I gotta admit the "clench" factor was pretty high just before you started cutting. Like a Bulls butt during fly season…. LOL
your shit is too pretty
What are you figuring for wheel life, grinding steel with diamond? Better yet, let us know what the actual wheel life is, when it wears out!
infeed is super ))
GREAT VIDEO !!!
turn wright machine works did a vid on this very thing and he found some really extreme run out on the nuts them selves once corrected made vast improvements. so check out keiths work.
did you get rid of the vibration with the machine running.. you may need to figure out a way to shift the wheels around to zero their run out since they don’t have a hub to pilot on. checking the outside runout and with the screws slightly loose bumping the wheels slightly might remove it totally without needing to remove the wheels from the backing plates. either that or build new backing plates on a lathe with a tighter bore and a hub to center the wheels … but also make a spindle or pilot of that size so you can balance it on the surface grinder balancing jig.. i would probably also use a tiny curved diamond file to take off the high spot you found on the shaft spacer, if its only one spot.. the only other way you might create a balance device is like the steel shot in the ring that mounts behind the wheels on cars and trucks.. each time the car reaches speed the steel shot evens out the balance.. could that be done in your new backing plates? this does not get rid of runout.but it will take care of out of balance issues.. https://youtu.be/ullnFQD4F1I its only a thought.. thanks for the video.. and area the hold down screws and washers all equal weight… that could be an easy way to change the balance.. change the washer weight.. or grind a little off one of the washers and move it around one position at a time. so you don’t loose the work done zeroing the run out. .
Nice video, very informative and creative. Thanks for sharing this with us.  Dan
great show. tnx for ideas. my fingers would have automatically flinched…..singing.
Enjoyed your video, hope you are having a good day.!.!.!.
Great video Stan. I run a few on my old Delta carbide grinder, and really like it. I have a bff with an extension cord and a magnetic control box, and just plug in my different yes and belt sanders, and great to regulate the speed for different applications. I would look at truing up the but the next time you remove the back plate.
I have a Blador 510 grinder just like that. I haven’t got to use it much yet. The Diamond wheel I have on one side looks completely different.
And there go the headphone users, haha 😀
Good solution, came out great!
How much for that little vise?
That would be a pucker moment when first feeding the cutter in. I would probably have mounted the tool upside down in the vice so it was sitting on the table for fear of the tool grabbing and tipping into the wheel (rapid aggressive increase in cutting depth followed by crushed fingers and much foul language). Great job. Love the mini vice with the engine turned finish.
How do you use a VFD on a single phase motor ?
That was a good repair.
That was really useful Stan, much appreciated. I have a knockoff Baldor and between this video and K.Fenner’s vid on this same subject I know what to look for. I have 2 silicon wheels on mine and even without it being bolted down I can stand a nickel on top of the motor and turn it on and off and it doesnt budge which is a good sign but have yet to do a thorough investigation of the machine so appreciate your vid. Btw, where can I pick up a suitable wheel for use on HSS as I dont need two silicon carbide wheels. TIA~ Richard
Love it Stan. Your a wealth of information.
Great effort and reward! Thanks amigo.
Very nicely done Stan. Would you mind saying where to find the diamond grinding wheels I have the same grinder. Sure do appreciate you sharing your experience.
Hi STAN we balanced the backing plate and stone together on a shop made balancer with air bearings, worked like a champ. Would be a fun project for the channel! Mike collins
So the shaft or bore of the flange was warped. Now you need to index it and never swap sides.
Stan I have the same motor and is missing one of the underneath the table protractor did you have any idea we’re I can get it and we’re did you get those wheels and how much thank you
Hi Stan I just got that grinder at an auction today. It’s the Baldor 522. Can you tell me what the best wheels fir grinding HSS lathe tool bits.
Nicely done Stan. I’m surprised to see that is a problem on the Baldor grinders as well. I have one of the clones that was far worse than that and ended up having to make all new spacer sleeves and hubs that actually fit the motor shafts without the huge gaps. I found the original cast aluminum hubs to be full of internal voids after initially trying to true them up on my lathe. I turned new hubs from some 6061 round stock and new sleeves from some heavy wall DOM tubing. Night and day difference now that those parts don’t shift around on the shafts due to the oversize ID’s that the original parts had.
By the way, thanks for showing another great way for me to use my awesome Z-squares. I love it!
Stan, you machined the faces of the hubs, but did you machine the edges? I thought I saw some non-concentric movement. See you at the Bar-Z. Jon
That’s a major modification. Guessing ppl gonna go buy the Taiwan made grinder that Keith Fenner has and modified.
Nice video. Would have not thought of trueing it up on the machine.
Nice job!
Stan, great video. Could the shaft be distorting under thread torsion ? How straight was is it outside the inner bush that indicated true ?
We used to machine VW drums with the wheel nuts tightened up to eliminate distortion there.
Best of luck with the Bash.
Nice toolpaths Stan, even cooler dials.. one tap was 0.001 so infeed was couple thou😄😄
nice tuneup and video….
Stan, that was badass. Please do a video on how you did the engine turning ( jewelling) on your little vise there, i’ve always been facinated with that finish. Thanks!
Very good work. Your calibrated drift and hammer are awesome! Thank you for sharing your experience. I will apply this knowledge to my grinder.
"calibrated taps" lol – brass balls you have my friend
Awesome !
As a "kid," those were the things I would have tried, shop or field. Most likely would have used the sanding disk trick, might have even tried using a file.
Machine in place always removes those stacked tolerances. 🙂
Stan, Thank you for the information and the link. Had not thought of McMaster.
Had the same problem with mine. I ended hand scraping the back of the hubs until the faces ran within 2 tenths.