Clever Subscriber Woodworking Tips and Jigs – Episode #28
Clever Subscriber Woodworking Tips and Jigs – Episode #28
This episode – more tips and and a couple more woodworking jigs as well, first up is options for better lighting in poorly lit workshops, Jeffery suggested a rechargeable portable light, like many of the new LED type lights, but you could even use a head-band light, or even a plug-in light with magnetic base, lots of different options to work safer … thanks Jeffery, great suggestions, and Byron has been shopping at Harbor Freight and came up with some ideas for push blocks, like the “ceramic float” that was all I could find that was similar to Byron’s idea, add some anti-skid material to it and now you have a super good push block for not much money, and that moved us to Doug’s 2×4 push block or push stick for the table saw with the dowel handle, I love the idea or the 2×4 push block but could do without the dowel handle, I think the push block without the dowel is a god safe way of pushing wood through your table saw and finally Paul sent a picture of a table saw fence measuring simple woodworking jig that can quickly give you perfect depth alignment information for table saw blades that is not affected by the table saw blade insert and can be used with permanent or temporary markings … great tip Paul, I like it. These are some of the best woodworking jigs I’ve had submitted.
More Woodworking Tips You’ll Actually Use.
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Subscriber Submitted Workshop Tips and Tricks – Episode #27 https://youtu.be/N635c3IIJP4
5 Cool Subscriber Woodworking Tips – Episode 26: https://youtu.be/rNUCNDS08gE
5 Quick Subscriber Woodworking Tips – Episode 25: https://youtu.be/k7TTkaAtLXQ
Subscriber Submitted Woodworking Tricks & Tips Ep 24: https://youtu.be/W74LW1RNcRI
Subscriber Submitted Workshop Tips and Tricks Ep 23 : https://youtu.be/6x5TkqSeu4M
Subscriber Submitted Woodworking Tips & Tricks – Episode 22: https://youtu.be/z6hJgOVcHy4
Subscriber Submitted Woodworking Hacks – Episode 21: https://youtu.be/vChHDNwo9Go
Subscriber Workshop Tricks and Tips – Episode 20: https://youtu.be/uGX9W0Ba964
Subscriber Workshop Tricks and Tips – Episode 19: https://youtu.be/Jff5EvcMVvI
Subscriber Workshop Tricks and Tips – Episode 18: https://youtu.be/95mTFljodiw
Subscriber DIY hacks for woodworkers – Episode 17: https://youtu.be/RuYRuaxdA9g
Subscriber woodworking for beginners tips 16: https://youtu.be/bOYa0DUwcKw
Subscriber submitted workbench hacks 15: https://youtu.be/bnrHUBNXp1w
Subscriber Workshop Tips and Tricks Episode 13: https://youtu.be/srmOu1E4O9k
5 Quick Woodworking Tips / Subscriber Tips Episode 12: https://youtu.be/CgsaMEUpzAI
Subscriber Woodworking Shop Tips Part 11: https://youtu.be/lZZjLj9sOcM
Subscriber submitted woodworking tools tips Part 10: https://youtu.be/bTxnFlEqs0s
Subscriber submitted tips for hand tools Part 9: https://youtu.be/NgkWSAPAErk
Subscriber submitted workshop tips Part 8: https://youtu.be/NxNV_FbFj6k
Subscriber submitted workshop tips Part 7: https://youtu.be/lMoxzTALfbQ
Subscriber submitted workshop hacks Part 6: https://youtu.be/T2xB8nSj0dQ
Subscriber submitted workshop tricks Part 5: https://youtu.be/DSX9FkhZZhs
Subscriber submitted hand tool woodworking tips Part 4: https://youtu.be/E4Ygcs6SfrI
Subscriber submitted woodworking tool tips Part 3: https://youtu.be/1UVGMDsPDk0
Subscriber submitted woodworking tricks Part 2: https://youtu.be/ZjCOO7M4ViM
Subscriber submitted woodworking tips Part 1: https://youtu.be/ItsSBHwqKBw
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Good tips Colin. I like the cement float push stick. Gonna make one of those.
Those head strap lights are great, especially for us older grey beards. Have you ever been under a sink for repairs and try to get a light positioned on your work? One of the best investments I have ever made. They are bright, long battery life and rechargeable. Spend a little more money on one and you won’t regret it.
Are you sure you are not Proximo from the movie Gladiator?
I have used the headlamp in my shop.
Really great tips, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Wouldn’t that anti skid material be dangerous on the table saw? Eg the blade could catch on it and pull the whole thing into the blade (and maybe hands or fingers in the process). I’d think it might be a similar issue to wearing gloves.
I have found the best solution for a push stick to grip better is to put a thin layer of silicone on it. Put a bead on and just spread it. Silicone has a high degree of friction on most surfaces.
You could also use the height jig as an easy block to touch off of when using your miter gauge so that you don’t have to clamp a piece of wood to the fence.
As always from this channel, great tips and help for us all. Thank you!!!
More great tips, 👌🏽
cheers guys, keep me coming!👍🏽
Even if your workshop is relatively well lit, often when you are working, you cast a shadow on the very thing you’re trying to say. That’s one of the reasons I really love my headlamp and have started using it no matter what I’m doing
A decent head torch is incredibly useful. I use mine regularly, invaluable if you have to knock a breaker off to replace a light fitting etc. Worth spending the money on one that will last years, even if it’s not rechargeable.
Very good ideas, especially the last one for me!! Thanks 🙂
That last one would work great as a stop block for tenoning.
I wouldn’t put the black non-slip mesh material on a push block. The material could catch on the blade and cause it to be ripped from your hand. That stuff doesn’t cut with a table saw.
I always watch as soon as you post a new edition. Your channel is too valuable to miss. Thank you for giving me a foundation in woodworking.
GREAT VIDEO
I used the headlights all the time and they were great.
Nice tips
That last tip is great, I don’t know how I hadn’t thought of something so obvious
Very interesting, i use zero clearance inserts on my table saw. I also use the gripper for my push stick or block. You were correct, that was a tie float. I will have to look into one of them
Colin, did you forget you have a laser engraver? this would be a perfect place to use it.
Just a mention harbor freight has a oval flashlight with a magnet on the it has 2 different settings for around $2
where can we send the tips and tricks?
I have about 6, energizer headlamps. A couple at work, and several around the house. I also have 4 or 5, cheaper ones, and the good ones, are FAR superior.
I would not care to use the push stick idea that you showed at the 5 minute mark. And like Colin said, using a dowel as a handle is just too unstable in my opinion. There are plenty of much better push sticks available either to buy or better yet, to make yourself. The type that Collin has where the handle points upward and forward is what I prefer. But the ones I make are taller and have a long, oval hole for my hand that allows me to get a firm grip on it. And like Collin, I have two that are real thin and in fact, yesterday I made another one that is 2 " thick that gives good stability and pressure down on wide boards that I rip. I made it out of treated Pine and it has some weight to it, but that is okay with me…more stability.
I do a lot of re-sawing with my table saw which requires the blade to be slowly raised, until and quite often, the maximum height is cranked in. So this is different than what Collin mentioned about the height of the blade.
Fences are way too short, vertically speaking, for stable re-sawing so I bolted on two taller 6" boards , one on each side of my fence…a ‘sandwich’ effect. Now I can keep the board I am re-sawing held firmly against the taller fence board which keeps the board stable and nice & vertical.
i wish you would ramp up the volume of your videos.
Instead of making the little jig with ply facing, use a melamine so write on, wipe off? Stand the little jig against the piece to be cut and mark off the depth.. then just set blade to the top of that line?
Stop spending $100s on non slip Rockler cookies and mats and all that. Go to Goodwill or even your local dollar general and pickup some yoga mats. Same material, low cost, and can be glued to just about anything. Works perfect for a non slip surface
… but do you have a push block in the shape of a cat, like I saw in another video?
☝️The blade-height idea simple, elegant and inexpensive. I’m learning there is way too much marketing out there attempting to distract us from quicker shop-made solutions that are fundamentally superior (and more cost effective). Thanks for sharing 👍💪
That grabber thing is nice, but crosscutting thin material like that is simply dangerous. It doesn’t matter if you haven’t had a problem (yet), it’s safer to use a sled or just go right to the smarter tool for the job if you have it. A chop saw. Cool video. 👍🏽
Pura vida mi amigo thanks for sharing your ideas and knowledge about this topic pura vida
Another vijeo where the contributors names called Jeff and Jill.
If the metal on that float is magnetic, I wonder if you could just hold the grippy material on with a couple nametag magnet bars.
Thanks 🙏
If the insert is lower than the surface of the table, why not just adjust the insert?
So that’s the issue I have seen with my measuring the height of the blade.
I make my thin pushers out of Masonite, works great.
Few months ago I went to a "Restore"/Recycle and found a ton of different floats, sizes all at good prices. I cut a couple to narrower widths, added anti-slip material to them.
The name float is correct Colin. Great for both sanding and push block.
I searched for a float to use as a push block some time back because I was curious and my advice is – don’t do this. This is safety gear.
Yes, if you find the right float you get something which will work as a push block. But first you need to find the right float, because some won’t grip the wood how you want. When when you do find a float with the right contact, you’ll see it’s almost certainly not designed to be safely nicked by a spinning saw blade like most modern push block. And finally the ergonomics of the float will be not quite right compared to a push block because you’re using it in a different way.
In the end you’ll have at least a slightly worse push block if not much worse, and push blocks are not that expensive. You can get a pretty decent two pack for $15 or so. You many not won’t save any money. on the alternative. But most importantly this is safety gear. These little bits are are important, and you should not compromise.
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
My husband replaced the light fixtures bulb that came with his bandsaw with a led bulb, big difference, also he uses shelf liner as antiskid material it works great and is inexpensive
led’s don’t last forever. On average the things seem to stop working in very roughly about 2years. Doesn’t seem to make much difference how much I paid.
Thank you
That is a grout float. There is also a red rubber thing nearly the same with the concrete finishing tools.
I use a head lamp quite often and it has been a real help for getting light just where I need it.
Something that I think could make that last jig even more accurate is to actually cut the bottom off, so that it leaves a space underneath which is exactly as high as you need a cut to be. This eliminates any inaccuracies due to pencil thickness. Of course this would make it less versatile for setting multiple depths, but for common cut depths (say 3/4 inch) you’ll have a jig which you can actually position over the blade and raise the blade up until it touches the underside of the jig for a perfect repeatable height adjustment. Since it’s just made from a few pieces of plywood it would be cheap and easy to make a few like that for common sizes, and then another like the one in the video for any one-off depths you may need.
Great tips, thanks!!