Craftsman Table Saw Model 113 New Motor
Craftsman Table Saw Model 113 New Motor
Have a Craftsman 113.xxxx model table saw? Still using the stock motor? You’re likely missing out on a significantly better experience using your tool. This video takes you through the steps to swap your old 3/4 – 1 HP 120v motor with a 3 HP 220v motor.
what was the red wire for and why was it not used?
Probably ran of 110 should have ran it on 220 would have made alot of diffrence have the same saw rund like a dream mad it a double belt and ran it on 220
Thanks so much for the information and recommendation. I have the Delta saw, almost and maybe identical to the Craftsman. And like yours, a motor label of 1.5 hp just does not have the power for most of my work. Will be doing this upgrade as well. Thanks again.
Can you explain to me how you figured out which wires ground to each area? How did you know where to insert each line to the correct area to supply power from motor to onoff switch then that to plug? I just want to make sure I don’t wire a bomb haha
That burn in the maple at the end of vid…even with new motor…cause your’e using a crosscut blade not a ripping blade.
Why do so many people insist on using the soundtrack from a 1971 soft core porn flick as the background music to home made Youtube videos?????
For anyone else considering this motor swap, use a cord connector at the motor. The ty-rap strain relief inside the terminal box isn’t good enough. You can size the connector by the knock out in the box/motor you’re entering and the outside dimension of the cable.
Nice upgrade. I bought the same saw or very similar saw 113.298750 new in 1989! Actually just sold it last month because I found an awesome 1959 Craftsman Floor Model by accident. I’m not very good with making YouTube videos but I did post this https://youtu.be/qwC5QdKdtZA
Check it out. I’m looking forward to doing some restorations and project builds in the future and sharing them on YouTube or Instagram.
Is there a stronger HP motor in a 120v version I could install in mine for jobsite use?
I believe you math is wrong, 13A is well above the current draw of a 3/4-1 HP motor. I only have a 1.5 HP motor on my 10" craftsman table saw and it never disappoints me with it’s power. I have 2.5 HP Craftsman RAS which has an 11 Amp rating.
Also searching the T55BXHK 470 part number your motor data plate, equates to a 1.5 HP motor with 3 HP peak.
Look at your new 3 HP motor, it states only 15 Amps. You skip the required cord retainer on the power cord and replace it with a flimsy zip-tie which is just plain dangerous and against all electric codes. Then you use a 30 amp plug on a 15 AMP motor. You are strange.
Hey, let’s say I just need to get a replacement motor, but don’t need it to be 3hp, how do I know I am getting one that I’d compatible with my 113 saw?
You could have just wired it at 240 volt like the motor suggest on the sticker to get the full horsepower rating
Your video was informational, although I feel you should have used strain reliefs of the power cords as they came that way from factory. Along with a shop made belt guard since the original one didn’t fit anymore. Dumb things happen, safety devices help with some of them..
I jus bought one definitely a different motor on mine but i am still thing under powered … But the cabinet shop i grew up in had monster 25 hp industrial custom table saws … So that being my first… I’m a tad biased
Looks awesome I want to do the same upgrade to my 113. Only thing I didn’t like was the lack of box connector where the wires went into the motor. Other than that great video.
Fun to watch. I looked at one of these motors. Up here in Canada that motor is 400 ish. It’s more than the saw I’m looking at costs. I’ll have to start saving my pennies. Oh, we got rid of those; my nickles then. Lookit that I’m saving 5 times faster now.
I’ve heard a lot of people saying that a link belt and machined pulleys help vibration and therefore sound. I haven’t tried it myself so it’s hearsay but thought I’d mention it.
Thanks for the video.
Where can I get that motor mount?
I discovered a problem yesterday with my 113.298030 Craftsman table saw when I tried to tilt the blade to cut a 45 degree. Beyond 10 degrees it got increasingly hard to turn the wheel. I did everything I could to get it freed up to no avail….could only get to 20 degrees. Brushed the screw rod, lubed it everywhere I could. Don’t know why it’s so hard to turn…do you have any ideas short of dismantling the saw???
120volts*13amps=1560 watts=2hp? Not sure where you got 3/4 of a hp
Get a link belt and new pullys from in-line industries. Makes a world of difference on vibration
Nice job. You had me at calling the marketing guys wanks…. Then lower in the comments where you said hardcore only in response to the music track…. Nice job!
Oh wow this is perfect. Yesterday I asked my mother about getting my grandpa’s table saw, a craftsman 113.298030, that’s been sitting for almost 20 years. I was trying to figure out how to do just this, I wanted to upgrade the motor to a 3 hp motor. Awesome video and big thanks for showing the motor you purchased
Before buying a new motor, try running your current motor on 240V if it supports it. It pulls half the current and loses much less power on high blade cuts.
I was just trying to cut maple yesterday with all of the same problems. Thanks for the video because this is exactly what I need to do for mine. This should work for a flex drive model also right? Also what glance and tail system is equipped on your saw?
My wife just got all upset with me. She thought I was watching porn because of your choice in background music! LOL
Mine was my first big buy too. Motor just gave it up today halfway through the last cut of my project. Looking forward to upgrading!
A fun experiment would be to rebuild that old 1.5 hp motor, new bearings and capacitors etc, and rewire it for 240V and put it back on. Be interesting to viewers if that is also a solution because finding that replacement 3hp motor for $75 isn’t something that happens to everyone. Nice video!
Where did you get your fence
Does the new motor rise above the table top when the blade is tilted? The reason I ask is that when I put a larger motor on my Craftsman 113 and tilted the blade the motor rose above the height of the table and interfered with the cut… something to keep in mind when doing this upgrade. I plan on making a new motor bracket to solve the problem.
Mine runs fine on 220vac & the right blade.
A link belt smooths it out.
Don’t saws with bigger motors usually have 2 belts?
I’d recommend a pulley and acculink belt upgrade found at In-Line industries web site.
as seen in the video those things get filled with sawdust. since these are bronze bushed instead of ball bearings they need to be pulled apart cleaned and lubed every year or two. i bought mine new in 1980 and its been a workhorse. many things affect the power. a good tune up and a sharp blade will be a world of difference too.
Yep…got one and upgrading this spring. Great saw but underpowered. You did the right thing.
Make sure its not plugged in with a long extension cord. You lose power quickly
What would you recommend as a replacement motor? Do you guys have a link to a decent, affordable (<$350.00) model?
Did you upgrade your rip fence to the one in the video
So much easier to mount the motor to the plate if you loosen the bolts that hold the motor bracket rods to the saw and pull it right off.
Nice. Very nice. Consider replacing the rubber V-belt with a link adjustable belt – it would reduce vibration and noise a great deal. Replacing the original stamped pulleys with machined (balanced) pulleys would also help; if memory serves me correctly, they come from Inline Industries for about $20.
I’m still running the original Craftsman motor, but purchased a new switch and cords, which have yet to be installed.
Looks like you have a decent fence. My saw came without one, so I invested in a fence from Shopfox (Grizzly). Also came without a miter gauge, but so many stock miter gauges today are cheap junk, real loose in the miter slot. Found an antique miter gauge with hold-down and a steel miter bar on eBay, and it fits the miter slot PERFECTLY! No slop at all.
Thanks for the video. I will probably watch it a few more times before I get around to replacing those cords.
Good luck and stay safe!
You should solder all connectors…crimping is not reliable 100%. Got that same crimp tool….connectors often come off..
Yep, got one and it can use more power. ditched the stand 30 years ago. But overall not a bad saw.
It may have already mentioned by another commenter but I’m going to mention it..
– I’m not sure how you equated a 13 amp 120 volt motor to a 3/4 (.75) horsepower motor as I show a 13 amp 120 volt motor to calculate to 1.69 horsepower given an efficiency rating of 90% and power factor of .9. So the claim it’s a 1.5 horsepower motor with is correct.
I have the same motor on my Craftsman. I’ve considered changing the motor to the more current 15 amp. However, I choose to first try a couple things to improve the original first such as:
1) making sure it was properly lubed
2) making sure I used the proper blade for the task and type wood.
3) Making sure the blade was sharp
4) Making sure the pulleys were aligned
2) Most importantly, I changing the V-Belt to a Cogged V-Belt which showed a vast improvement. Reportedly you can increase efficiency of horsepower by switching to a Cogged V-Belt. A standard V-belt shouldn’t be on a pully less than 3 inches as the belt can’t make the radius as well on smaller pulleys. The pulleys on a Craftsman 113 are 2.5 inch. The Cog V-belt proved quieter, to add some power and torque.
You may get some slippage when there is a tough piece of wood to cut or when binding, but other than that, I think you’ll find an over all improvement. Even if you go to a higher amp/hp motor, try changing to a Cogged V-Belt. You may find you like it better and it will give you some gains from the motor.
Hope that helps you and some others that may or may not have upgraded their motors on their table saw.
As you said " Marketing Wanks" . Sears did that with all tools. "3 h.p." is power produced just as motor stalls. Makes it sound more powerful.
I my opinion buying a new motor is not cost effective, unless you have use for the old weaker motor. A single belt likely will not transmit 3 hp.
Excellent upgrade, My saw has a different motor than yours but I have a motor just like your saw came with, it is weaker than the motor mine came with, my saw had the same 3hp rating but it has a 15amp 120v only motor, your old motor has 120v/240v capability not sure if running it on 240v would help but it’s definitely too weak on 120v
A lot has to do with the blade sharpness and quality. I have no problem ripping a 3 inch 8 foot board with no bogging…same Sears Craftsman saw…original…probably 30 years old.. That saw with new 3hp runs like a beast.
I never heard of 5/4” inch.
I am on an old 100 am panel, and can only get 30am 120 to the garage. Any recommendations for a 120v motor upgrade?
I would have replaced the switch just for the safety paddle switch. The big one you can hit with your knee to kill the motor.