DIY Table Saw Lathe | Plans
If you don’t have a lathe in your shop, you can still make turned legs.
*UPDATE* Plans are here: https://www.almfab.com/plans
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Affiliate links to parts:
T-track kit: https://www.rockler.com/17-piece-universal-t-track-kit
Nylon bushing: https://amzn.to/2YMO7Bm (best bought at a Hardware store)
7/16 deep socket: https://amzn.to/34eoAlL
Socket drill adapter: https://amzn.to/2qPr5gV
Affiliate links to tools
ISOtunes Earbuds http://bit.ly/almfabiso
Sawstop Table Saw: https://amzn.to/2sqE9JS
Irwin Quick Grip Micro: https://amzn.to/2PGx53Y
Forstner bit set: https://amzn.to/2rzIaMj
Brad point bit set: https://amzn.to/38DqLCK
Combination square: https://amzn.to/35k9UTG
Milwaukee M12 Drill and Driver: https://amzn.to/36yducU
Shinwa Ruler: https://amzn.to/2LTOAwx
Scratch awl: https://amzn.to/35kHA3B
Counter-sink bit set: https://amzn.to/38ER23Y
Jet Bandsaw: https://amzn.to/2rzBSfH
Carpet tape: https://amzn.to/2YMOBYA
Instagram: @almfab http://bit.ly/alminsta
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Why add the bushing?
Amazing. Never would have thought of this.
I will made this… It’s very simple…
Great video and clear instruction without wasting a bunch of time! You’re obviously very talented. By the way, love the music on your videos too.
I am getting some flat spots on my spindles. Not exactly sure why, but I believe it’s occurring during the preliminary operation of ripping off the corners of the piece. Slightly too much material is taken off there for some reason. Anyone else have this problem? Other than that the jig is fantastic—thanks so much for sharing.
I knew I wasn’t the first one who thought about this!
I actually think this is much better than doing on a lathe. It’s more precise, repeatble, isn’t it?
You skipped over the part where you make multiple holes (or a slot) for the headstock. Can you provide any more details on this? The few frames showing the slot, made the slot appear quite small/short.
awesome!!! thank u!
If you move the track to get a taper, won’t the saw blade be too far from the work piece to work?
This thing is incredible!!! I’d use this jig even if I HAD a wood lathe! You really do amazing work man! If YouTube had awards, you’d get my vote!
Parabéns! ótima idéia 👏👏👏
Great build. What’s the largest straight dowel will it make.
wonderfull, amazing, verry clever 🙌👏👍
thanks a lot, for sure i’ll try this
Anyone try this on a 8 1/4" saw? Cut depth is about 1/2" shorter at only 2 9/16"
What an awesome jig! I just built one and the results are great. im getting some flat spots on the leg towards the tailstock from the initial cut-offs that i cant explain yet…let me know if you experienced this as well.
You think I could do a baseball bat like this?
very nice from mohommed salim
Adorei muito bom maravilhas
Great Michael! One question: Can we replace the walnut wood with birch ply? Thanks!
Nobody explain as much as you do. Are an instructor? Teacher? Communicator? Wao! Thank you!
This guy must be top 3 on youtube
Dang, that’s brilliant! Honestly, I’m stunned that actually works. Wow.
*UPDATE* plans are now available https://www.almfab.com/plans
Hey man, nicely done! Quick question…what if you wanted to turn legs out of a 4×4? Wouldn’t you simply have to make the two end pieces taller? Thanks.
Have any of you even tried to build this? I built it perfectly to spec and I go to spin the piece and the 1/4-20 2” hex screw just drives into the piece and splits it every time without even spinning the stock
The most simple I’ve seen of these "lathe jigs". Great !!
Which way does the cordless drill rotate – with or against the clock seen from your (user) perspective? I’d assume that against would be better going against the sawblade rotation? Maybe it doesnt matter at all? Regards from Denmark!
So cool! I especially like the fact that the wood slides on the side of the blade (vs other jigs in which it’s "right on top" of the blade), which makes the jig much simpler…I’d have a question: do you think it would be the same to make the jig mirrored on the other side, ie sliding with the blade on the left and the fence on the right? I’m thinking of making it this way, with my diy stock rollers keeping it pushed downwards and toward the fence (so no runners involved and I can recycle the base of a taper jig…), but I wonder if the side matters for safety.
Anyway, thanks in advance and hat off to your beautiful and inspiring channel!
Hello, what is the make/model of that small (orange) band saw you use in this video? I can’t seem to find it by the link you provide. Thanks, DM
Thanks for sharing this idea!! I made one for myself for a hallway table!!
Aces! Well done.
I’m not generally a safety nut, but leaving those off cuts hanging there as you spin your lathe jig is just asking for a shot right in your face – especially if you make a miss calculation on your size or your lathe wiggles loose for one reason or another.
DUDE! This thing is awesome!!!!!! I went to SPU by the way. 🙂
Link doesn’t work to Build Plans FYI – Thanks for the Vid!
I bought your sketchup plans (because you deserve the support) and will build this jig today. One thing I was a bit disappointed with: It would be really helpful to have the dimensions of all the pieces on the Sketchup. That would have saved me the time it took to go through your video, stopping and starting as I copied dimensions to the sketchup drawing. I’ll be using this jig mostly to make dowel blanks for my lathe, which will make getting to round a lot quicker. I will modify the jig to match my lathe bed, which is longer for making things like walking sticks. Hopefully there won’t be too much flex and chatter if I make a longer dowel. Thanks for this. I have high expectations. Particularly impressed with the finish you got right out of the jig, something I couldn’t achieve with my other dowel jig for the table saw, which came close to being a total failure.
That is just too cool !
Probably the best dowel jig i have seen yet
Just WOW! Freaks me out a little but not as scary as I initially thought from the original image. Very doable. How wide is the kerf on your table saw blade? Have you tested this jig with different kerf widths? It seems that the thinner kerf blades might flex.
This is awesome! I see your note about the minimum 3/8 distance to blade. Dang, could you see anyway this could be adapted to safely work for chair back spindels? (like around 1" stock, finishing up at 3/4" D spindels that taper to 1/2"D or less). Maybe if wood pins instead of nails? and maybe a support in the middle to stabilize the thin stock? thoguhts? thanks!
ohhhh nooooo mr Biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiilll. haha
Sweet! This is just what I needed, bought the plans, looking forward to "turning" my first legs.
I was just thinking about how I was going to go about making my dad a personalized pool cue, and then I looked through your old videos and found this. Thank you!
What if I don’t want it tapered. Don’t see where you at it up for a taper.
Just discovered that the dimensions for the shuttle are not working out for me. 3 1/2" by 3 1/2" with a two inch by two inch relief cut doesn’t leave enough remaining for the spindle to sit on it. Should have noticed this before I cut the parts, but no big deal. Did you mean 4 1/2′ by 4 1/2"? Hmmm. 3 1/2" minus 2" should leave enough for three 1/2" blocks to sit on. Something is not adding up. Okay. I see the problem. My bad, not yours. I made my blocks 3/4" thick. Oh damn. I have already completed the tail stock. What are the implications if I just increase the dimension of the shuttle? That means that the bottom of the leg will be larger than one inch. Okay, just move the nail down. That should solve that one.
I’m really starting to appreciate the thought that went into your design. Nothing like trying to build it, eh?
Superb design and presentation. Thank you for sharing.
Would this be safe to do let’s say a 20mm to 12 mm taper? Looking to attempt to make a pool cue shaft.
You’re too young to know who Mr. Bill is.