Do you need all the different Iron Bench Plane sizes?
Do you need all the different Iron Bench Plane sizes?
After years of requests, we are finally touring the plane wall behind me.
Part 1 (wood bodied planes)- https://youtu.be/-pFmUsrtKlI
Part 2 (Iron bench planes)- THIS VIDEO
Wood River bench planes: https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/planes
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Great info mate🇦🇺🐨
Where on Earth would you find tool information this extensive? No where else. Gracias Mr. Hamilton. You definitely and truly “rock.”
Thanks James. Looking forward to the next.
Hello Mr. Hamilton! I want to start off by saying I’ve been following your channel for a very long time. Have I seen every video? No. I do appreciate everyone that I have seen though, especially the ones about forward thinking and safety!!! I really wanted one of those 4/4.5" chainsaw carving things until I saw what they can do in a New York minute. I’m following your current series about hand planes. Here comes my question… Are you going to do a restoration and maintenance video about these devices. I inherited some many years ago and so inherited some issues. Some are rusty and/or missing the cutting blade and other parts. What kind of steel would I use to replace the cutters? How to clean the rust and prevent future infection of oxidation. I was thinking of 01 tool steel but would regular cold roll work? I’m a man on a budget and don’t shun advice when I ask for it. Thank you for all of your videos and your insight has made all of us a bit wiser. Safety First! 🙂
Interesting collection of planes.
More planes = more sharpening. No thanks. It’s like what my old man used to say about the Statue of Liberty – "It’s nice, but I wouldn’t want to paint it."
Question, what is the best way to get the blade parallel with the block body? I rarely use these tools, just a DYI weekend hobby, but I always seem to spend more time aligning the tool than actually planing. Perhaps make a video on how to set one of the up correctly? How to identify the grain pattern? What do for different grain direction for material like molding that has different pieces spliced together. What is the correct or best amount the blade should extend the block? Etc
I couldn’t agree more about having a few planes for different purposes. Once you’ve
‘mastered" sharpening and setup. Although not a huge fan of cambering, I do appreciate having a few jack planes setup with different cut depths. The great abundance of 4’s and 5’s makes owning a couple of each very affordable. I also agree, my favorite plane to use is the 5 1/2. I have 2, one setup specifically for the shooting board, the other with a super sharp blade for almost finishing. I find the width and length of the 4 perfect for final finish.
I have a question for yourself and anyone who owns a woodriver plane. They come with A2 blades, how durable is this blade? It seems that while A2 would be perfect for the heavier work planes, a O1, with its keener edge is the best choice for a smoother. Thoughts?
And thank you, this is an excellent series, by a natural teacher. Great job!
Feeding the algorithm! Awesome content as always. Listening while I’m straightening out a poorly hand cut half-lap joint.
I don’t think you got enough planes there. 😲
Great discussion James, thank you for sharing it.
I love the feel of planing wood by hand, it’s so satisfying.
I’ve just notice the large wooden plane in the top right of the screen, I got it from my dad but I don’t know it history. I also need some tlc but I’ve been to afraid to work on it. Thanks for these videos, I find them so fascinating.
I have a question: I am looking for something to protect my lungs from sawdust. I have beard which makes it more difficult to find something at a reasonable price to work. Trend Air Circulating Air shield Pro is about all there is on the market but the price point is high with accessories just as bad. Do you know of anything that is as good or better with a lower cost on the market for this DYIer wood worker’s with a beard? Thank you for your time Ron Schubert
Very, very cool video. Great, honest, opinions of the seemingly minute but very informative, pros and cons of hand planes Love the info on vintage hand planes, and really love this series. Looking forward to the next vid!
I’m a healthcare worker but love making furniture & other woodworking. I find half the time I’m trying to finish up charts I end up watching yours & Katz-Moses videos. Love the content & education!
I’m old to wood working but new to hand planes, I guess as I get older I have more respect for them. Question, how can you tell just by looking at a plane what number/size it is? Thanks John, Spring TX
I think you just made it even harder to find a good user Stanley 5 1/2 at a reasonable price. Very informative series, Jim. Thank you.
When I did my degree dissertation in 1980 I chose the subject of "the design and development of the woodworking bench plane". If only the internet had been available!
I love my Wood River number 6 which is my go-to rather than my 5 1/2. I don’t have a 7 but I’ve had an 8 for 40 years. Looking forward to the next video
If you had to choose only one from each category what would you buy? I like the idea of doing stuff by hand but can’t afford a full set.
"The life so short, the craft so long to learn." Gus Stickley
A timely video as I am deliberating whether to get a 4 1/2 as I do like the width of my 5 1/2.
Now I have a question. I hope you can help! I recently disassembled a Bailey Stanley No 5 I have to clean it uo and flatten the frog, no problem but when I went to put it all back together, for the life of me I have been unable to put the cut of depth adjuster wheel back onto the wheel mounting screw! Can you tell what the thread size of this wheel mounting screw and the threads of the adjuster wheel are? They are roughly around 10-24 but I have not identified the thread size yet. Second, have any tips for getting the adjuster wheel back onto the adjuster screw? I am thinking that once I know the thread size I can just run a drill tap through the adjuster wheel and perhaps lightly, very lightly, file the adjuster wheel first thread to de-burr it though the drill tap treatment may do that, too. I finally solved the problem myself. First I successfully cleaned up and deburred the first couple of threads on the adjuster wheel mounting screw. Second, I figured out that the adjuster wheel has left handed threads so I had to spin the adjuster wheel onto the mounting screw "backwards" ( counter clockwise) and then it smoothly mounted. 🙂
Hello, I stumbled a cross this site. I acquired a number of very old planes well in excess of 120 years old. They smooth as good to day as when they were first forged and made. I look forward to more stories. 🇦🇺👍🍺
Like your videos. What’s your thoughts on Canadian Veritas hand planes?
Veritas made a #1 that you can actually grip because the handle extends beyond the back of the plane, the "Veritas Bevel-Up #1 Plane". I actually find it quite pleasant to use, much more comfortable than a block plane style grip
Did the next video ever get made?
Well done … another amazing video … 👍 … I generally use block plane and occasionally number 4 but the content you prepare is always detailed and fascinating to watch.
Keep up the good work.
Supra
Man, worked in telecom. Old dude now and just started playing with wood projects. I wish you were my neighbor. Lol
Just love your enthusiasm for your craft. 👍
Anything over number 5 is too heavy to be used for dimensioning wood entirely by hand, in my opinion wooden planes make a way better foreplane, and you don’t have to keep lubricating it when you plane for extended periods of time.
Thank you for the tutorials. My grandpa was an ol German wood craftsman and I remember as a youngster being in his shop. His "gazillion" of planes sticks out in my mind(the wall behind you brings back memories) some wood and some cast iron. Same with his saws. From the massive steam driven sawmill (ppl after on an old John Deere with steel wheels) in the backyard (acres) to his numerous handsaws to his bow saws. I only wish I knew then what I know now! But, Wish in one hand.
Nice to see good trigger discipline with those dangerous implements. Wouldn’t want to suffer a negligent discharge, you might end up planing all sorts of things!
so this isn’t a tour of a 787 Dreamliner? I can’t find the bathroom…
What a great presentation. Thank you, have a great week
You refer to a clip where you explain why the 5 1/2 is your favorite plane, but I can’t seem to find it.. The YouTube clip, that is. Could you point me in the right direction?
Great information as always.
a plane for every occasion…a fella can never have too many.
About 2 minutes in and I already know more than I ever thought there was to know about planes. You’re a great teacher and I learn so much from every video. Thank you. 👍
Thanks….waiting for part 3
Part 1 (wood bodied planes)- https://youtu.be/-pFmUsrtKlI
Part 2 (Iron bench planes)- THIS VIDEO
Wood River bench planes: https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/planes
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One interesting and I think important factoid is that the same plane blade size will fit into the No. 4-1/2, 5-1/2, 6 and 7 hand planes. Of course older to much older hand planes may not readily accept a thick plane blade. My hand planes are not vintage, being either new Bailey Stanley or Woodriver and I have thick plane blades in all of them as I hate plane blade chatter and its ill effects.
Yet again, splendid. Thanks.
Very interesting, love the history – looking forward to the next one. Thank you so much.
If the #5 Fore Plane is referred to as a Jack Plane, why the hell did they make the smaller one a size #5-1/4 instead of #4-3/4?
Ok, I have a question. Even though I am hobby woodworker, I also am on the lookout constantly to grow my plane collection, so if a plane is reasonably priced(in my terms) I will buy it. Needless to say, I have a few #4 & #5 which leads to my question.What about sharpening angle. As all my planes are old/used, they all came with blades with various stages of disrepair. I usually just look up on the internet to confirm which angle should the blade be sharpened at but with some experimenting at least for me, sharpening at different angles changes on how the plane works with wood. Some angle to me appear to work lot smoother with Hardwoods like Oak, Cherry or Maple than others….Am I just going down the wrong path or is there some science behind it?
Hi Stumpy, such nice content you share with us all, can you tell us what are your thoughts about infill planes vs modern planes in the likes of Norrris, Spiers, Mathieson old english plane makers or cast irons mitre planes?
Thank you so much or your videos.
The handles of the #1 & #2 were not meant to be griped like the other planes. If you hold them between the thumb and forefinger with the other fingers wrapped around the body, you can easily use them like a block plane. I use my #2 and sometimes the #3 as heavy weight block planes.
Good stuff!
I just watched the first part on wood-bodied planes, and this second part, which ended with a promise of a third part about other specialty planes. I spent a while looking but I couldn’t find that third part. Did I miss it? It has been over a year since this one was produced. Is part 3 on its way?
I’ve been woodworking for 58 years, since I was 6 and my tool/die maker grandfather introduced me to the craft. I never fail to learn from these videos. There are so many facets to honing this craft that there is always something to learn from others. I especially appreciate James’ low key demeanor and comments as to the actual usefulness he has found from each tool. Thanks for the diversity of topics, your perspectives, and the information you offer. BTW I use mostly a Stanley 1939 corrugated bottom #4 and a Wood River 4 1/2. As you said, sometimes I like the light weight/speed of one, and the heft and performance of the other.
Why are planes so damn expensive today? A Stanley, Lie Nielsen and WoodRiver planes goes for 300-600 Bucks! No mortal can afford this.. is the price set because people have started to DIY more and the companies went "lets raise prices and make $"?