Downgrade That Blade. I did and I like it.
Downgrade That Blade. I did and I like it.
In this video, I downgrade my table saw blade from a 10 inch blade to a 7 1/4 Inch framing blade. This was something I learned from Bob Chase on the Master Woodworker Channel.
Bob often reiterates through his video that table saws made for the home woodworking shop should not be equipped with a 10 inch blade. He mentions several benefits including a cleaner cut, greater stability in the cut,less dust and reduced noise. I was pleased at the quality of the cut and even more pleased with having less dust to deal with. I am converted and so far, happier for it. Now this downgrade may not work with all table saws. Some models and manufacturers may have features integrated that only work with 10 inch blades. On my Rigid work site table saw, I was able to make some minor adjustments and downgrade successfully. The most beautiful thing about this downgrade is that the 7 1/4 inch framing blade costs only $20 as opposed to a 10 inch blade from the same manufacturer at $86.
Go Check out Bob Chase’s Channel, The Master Woodworker: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC70nMtjNC2e1Vk2X7ASCwog
DISCLAIMER: My videos are for entertainment purposes only. Do not attempt to do anything that is shown in my videos. Woodworking and Metal Working are very dangerous activities and should only be performed by trained professionals.
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Can you downgrade a miter saw blade?
All true about the 7 1/4 blade. I too, use the same blade for all the reasons stated. If I need to bevel cut a 2 by 4 down the middle I simply change to my 10 inch. After that it’s back to the smaller.
RIP Mr. Chase. I can’t remember how I found Mr. Chase but I learned alot from his videos. I would have loved assisting him in he shop for free just to learn.
I have a stupid question I am sure. I have a 10 inch Delta contractors saw that I run on 220 amps. I am wondering if the higher amps would somehow make downsizing to a framing blade less safe? I know the arbor size is not a problem, just wondering if the more powerful motor does. Thanks ahead for suggestions.
not good for bevel cuts, hate to be switching back and forth
Wow… Just bought a 10" like a month ago….. Lol alright then.
Love the idea of using 71/4 blades. Don’t love that I have to remove the riving knife. Any ideas on how to use a riving knife with these thin blades?
Thankyou for the tip. Purchased the 10inch ridgid contractor table saw and was looking at the 10inch 90 teeth blade.
Gonna get the 7 1/4 40 tooth in the morning.
Thanks again.
I agree. I’ve been doing this for years. In all but the most critical projects, I use the smaller, less expensive blades. And, certainly for anything like salvaged scrap plywood or pallets, etc. where there might just be a stone, or staple, or screw. Better to ruin a 7 1/4" Diablo or Irwin Marathon than a $150 Forrest.
Been studying haven’t gotten to point of pulling trigger. Scanend through the comments but didn’t see – 2 questions – 1) would you also have to redo all your jigs and zero-clearance items and 2) would you do a 40t and 24t 7-1/4 blade.
On the safety aspect, I noticed that you removed the riving knife when changing down from a 10" to a 71/4" blade. Doesn’t this increase the chances of kick back. I would like to see your comments on this. Anyway a big thank you for your video.
Thanks Eric, I have 2 questions. How does the 71/4 perform ripping 2X material? How do you like the Ridgid table saw? I had one just like it until Hurricane Harvey drowned it last year. LOL.
Reading some comments here, almost everyone is talking about blades prices and buying them.
Are the stock blades that came with circular saws that bad?
Great info, I think this is the video you are referring to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVO7BkA6CN4
I did the exact same thing and I love it, cut down on the dust, cut down on the noise, the cuts are a lot cleaner, and the blade is not so overwhelming, 7 1/4 much friendlier!
A shift in perception is good. I was concerned that my Rigid – same saw as yours – will only accept a 8 inch dado blade. Don’t need a 10 inch blade to cut a 3/8 or 1/2 dado. !!!!!
So I have a miter saw question, I know it’s not table saw related BUUUT can I use a 10” blade in my 12” miter? The price difference is INSANE.
For alll .concerned about the knives, it seems to me that you could easily make a replacement knife of an appropriate height with some scrap metal and a few tools.. a former metal worker. Just use original knife as a pattern.
I tried this but switched back to the 10 inch General Purpose blade (less than $30 here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) because the thin kerf 7 1/4 would not stay true when ripping dimensional lumber, which is the majority of cutting on my table saw. I have never tried a crosscut blade in a table saw, only in a miter saw.
I just saw Bob Chase’s video last night on going to the 7 1/4 and I’m really glad to see someone else adopting his wise words.
I can’t believe they don’t make dedicated 7 1/4 " table saws. I never saw the point of the larger blade.
Thanks for sharing the tip!
Well that’s interesting. Years ago I had an anemic contractor saw I used a smaller blade on with no problem. I am confused about th less dust claim; why would that be so?
Makes sense most circular saws are 7 1/4 inch, and I see wood workers use tables and track saws all the time.
Thanks for this video, I was going to purchase another blade for my table saw. It will definitely be a 190mm blade. Cool site, too.
If you need a little more height than the 7.25" offers, there are 8" and 9" blades. I use a Diablo 9" 40T combo blade in mine for most cuts.
Been using a 4.5inch blade with great results for the past few years, as almost all of my hobby wood work is with 1/2 inch to 1 inch sheet wood and ply….and changing the blades every now and then is so much more easier on the pocket!
Where do we get that yellow guide you use?!
This framing blade is very nice on solid wood (though it’s no competition for a Forrest or Infinity or other high-end all-purpose blade), but where it really sucks is plywood, at least on my 3500 RPM saw. I do like the smaller size for many cuts, and the very narrow kerf is great. I plan to use it for cross cuts on exotics, but not for every day.
The first time I’ve ever seen anyone do this was a guy on the Lumberjocks forum. This review is from 2009, but I know there was talk of this before that, because I’ve been using the Freud Demo blades in my tablesaw since 2008.
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1034
I do still have multiple high dollar 10" specialty blades, but I only bring them out when absolutely necessary, which is nearly never. Despite the comment of no kickback (reduced maybe), this is not true. Wood with strong internal stresses has kicked back on me, but nothing major. This was 6/4 Ash with really gnarly figuring and was what I consider the max safe capacity of these smaller blades.
Then there are the microjig splitters. These aren’t the same a a riving knife, but do something similar (keep the kerf from closing). If I try this change, I’m going to use a zero clearance plate and the microjig splitters. The splitters can often be successfully used with the grippers which is why I originally researched them. They are quite short compared to the riving knife.
I have a classic Sears 8-inch table saw. 8-inch blades are scarce; 7 1/4-inch blades are cheap and abundant and I very quickly learned that they work well with it.
yeah Eric I saw Bob’s channel and already ordered a 7-1/7 Diablo. I also ordered a thin kerf gripper riving setup. I’ll see if that works if not I’ll toss it. My saw is very old and it never had a riving knife. and I saw John Heisz and he said he doesn’t use one and he was saying to know your wood and dont depend on anything making you safe. He’s right. the whole time I use my saw I am always aware of what I am doing. I’m just a weekend warrior workworker.
I bought a Kempston 99312 10-Inch by 24 Tooth blade off amazon for $33. Rip cuts are finish ready right off the saw. Does a decent job at cross cuts also. It has flat top grind, so its perfect for cutting joints on the table saw. It is also quieter than my other combination blades. Easily the best value I have ever found for a saw blade.
I also do this 7 1/4 blades to me are the best. Now if you need a good 10 inch blade check out harbor freight I’ve always been satisfied. 40 tooth blade is like 14.00$
Eric, I have the micro jig thin kerf and it doesn’t work. What would you use for a splitter/ riving knife I put in a zero clearance insert. Thank you Dave Gale oh yeah, I put in the 7-1/4 blade same as yours
I’ve did the same thing after watching his video too 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great idea! It’s like switching to a lower gear for more power.
It also requires a fraction of the torque to turn a 7 1/4" versus a 10"which prolongs the motor life of the table saw and maintains a more consistent blade speed.
thank you for sharing the name Bob Chase…just checked on his channel and he’s great. Well done for giving him his props…treasure trove of knowledge, that guy!
Was having a hard time getting clean cuts on 1/4" plywood, tired this, works great. I think I have found my new setup for the table saw, thanks.
Great tip Eric! Thank you. I took your advice and started watching Bob Chase on the Master Woodworker Channel. I was sad when I saw that Bob has passed.
I watched the "Ultimate New Generation" workbench video that he made – what a great project! Looks like the site he advertised is no longer active. Do you know where I could buy the plans that he mentioned?
Great tip!
Just what I was looking for, thanks.
Hi, so if I am going from a Diablo 50t thin kerf to this will I need to remake all sleds and jigs and zero clearance insert and reset the fence or is that the same kerf?
I like your logic, I’ve got my 110v 10inch site saw I’ve had it about 30 years still works fine. But earlier this year 2020 I bought a dewalt 7485 with its smaller blade. I can’t believe how much better it cuts and that rack and pinion fence goes all the way out to just over two feet. Like you said I also thought how often do I cut 3inch stock. Plus when the time is right I intend to add a band saw to the setup. I just have to be patient.
Hi eric, great idea you have. I’m just curious that if my tablesaw currently does 4800 rpm’s with a 10" blade. ( cause i changed the pulley on the motor from 2 1/2" to 3 1/2".) Where would the 71/4" blade bring me to on rpm’s ? Cause although i like your idea, im afraid of the blade going too fast. If that makes any sense. I have an old craftsman with a 1hp motor that is rated at 3450 rpm. I changed the pulley and found a 10" thin kerf blade by Amana for $36. I needed to do some resawing and it just wasnt fast enough. Kept popping the breaker. Any help on the approximate rpm’s woukd be appreciated. Oh, and thanks for sharing. Love your channel.👍
RIP Bob Chase.
Good tip. Thanks
Try a larger pulley on the motor.smother cut
I saw that Bab Chase passed away.