Extend your TableSaw Fence for Straighter Cuts – 80/20
Extend your TableSaw Fence for Straighter Cuts – 80/20
If you have a job-site saw with a short fence, one of the best ways to create straighter cuts is to extend the fence length. 80/20 extruded aluminum with t-tracks is a quick, easy way to do this.
80/20 extrusion 48″ length
https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-T-Slotted-Extrusion/dp/B001F0G648/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=80%2F20+extrusion+48%22&qid=1549999818&s=gateway&sr=8-10
Thanks for the excellent tip! I’m going to add this to my table saw. You’ve had this feature for several years now, and I’m wondering if you have any new suggestions? For instance would you go with a taller extrusion such as a 3 inch if you did it over again? I’m on the fence… no pun intended. 🙂
Genius. Subscribed. I’m in CA.ON.Cambridge, are you close enough for a beer?
Great idea, thank you! I’m definitely going to use this for my Bosch table saw, although I’m going to drill some vertical holes in the aluminum rail and use fence clamps instead of drilling through the table saw fence. It won’t slide, but for my use it’s better stationary. (PS this video is best viewed at 1.75x speed 😉
How do keep your space so clean? It’s amazing! I can’t leave the lid off my coffee mug for more then a minute or I run the risk of thin layer of dust. What’s the secret?
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up… blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter’s tape… this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
I see what you’re saying with this longer piece, but the problem I have here is that well it may adjust the fence according to the clamps that hold it to the a rack and pinion, and that longer piece of metal the metal is secured to the shorter base, which is still off set, and to adjust that you have to take the entire fense a part.
However, I agree that the longer piece gives an extension that can be useful, but only need a lot of that extension on the fence at the very beginning of the table. And what’s the use of having the extension out over the table if you don’t have support for your wood? Do you need almost a foot of support in front of the saw just to keep the peace that you’re cutting from kicking up if you’re going to be that extend it out to use the fence. The only way I could see the suspense. Being useful is to support the backend on longer boards.
Ahhh ahhhm and ahhh ahhh aahhhm aahhh ahhhm?
This was a great idea. Do you still use this saw / fence? I have a DeWalt DWE 7485 and I am looking at upgrading the fence. Anyways, you have a new sub 😉
If you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and say hi! Cheers.
How did you know where to drill the holes?
This is brilliant! So much simpler and lighter than some of the plywood/mdf box options that have been posted. And you can mount featherboards on the outfeed end of the track.
Well, I think your obviously on to something there. Bigger is better… at least “That what she said.”😏 I think I’ll just stick with my old, shorter, toed-out fence. It’s got me quite a few good cuts thru out the years🥱
Sorry for the thumbs down dude. I’m sure the video was on point and very useful, but the drrraawwnnnout opening monologue was just too drawn out for me to pay attention. Like I said, it might have been a very good video but in my viewing experiences, whenever I came across a slow opening, usually the person is more into themselves than the info they’re giving. That and they may also know far less than most people are already aware of.
Also, I thinking of using wing nuts to tighten the bolts. Seems like they would be easier to adjust
I tell u one thing I have learned as a Gen X in this new modern world and that’s how long I can hold my poo. Cuz if I can’t find my phone then I will run around frantically while prairie doggin! Just can’t go without it
Thanks for all the great suggestions over the years! The Youtube brain trust is strong :). I started using the suggestion of the support platform and it works really well to extend support for the pieces going in. Can’t do without it now.
Extremely useful! Thanks you. I am new to woodworking and just this weekend I had a need for an extended fence.
You can actually attach a support platform on the bottom of the extension rod on the entry side of the cut/saw to prevent the cut piece from dipping down as the work piece enters the cut.
This is one one best idea to improve my DW7492 – fence problem as always. I used a bit more massive profile 30×60 mm (20mm looks a bit too light to me). Thank you – cost me less than half of new fence. I measured also using this profile (100 cm long) my table and this is disaster. Table is flying up and down from left to right. From front to top is better but also not perfect. Shame for DW. They should check casting form.
tip hat to the master
At first I thought your custom shroud in front of the saw was powder coated sheet metal and my eyebrows were mega raised.
It looks great and would be so much easier to fabricate as ply or MDF.
I have this saw and want to do something like this too. Instead of your drawer underneath, I’d want to make that a dust receptacle with vacuum suction. Emptying it would be as easy as opening and dumping the drawer.
just by looking at the extrusion I think that’s a 20×40 mm
Did you consider replacing the original Dewalt alu fence with an extrusion, removing the stock, thin walled malleable rectangular pipe with a similarly tall unit.
Just did this a few weeks ago with 40×80 mm. Rock solid. Took all featherboards I needed for 45 bevel cuts for about 1000 pieces. the factory coupling is however a joke. I hope there’s a billet aftermarket replacement in the works
Nice, I made a 2" X 2" 80/20 fence for my old delta tablesaw years ago. Never thought about adding the same for the Dewalt.
I don’t have a Dewalt saw, but mine does have a similar fence. I plan to use this idea. Thanks for posting it.
I dig it!
I was looking at this saw but I hated the fact the fence had no tracks so it’s a win-win situation thanks for the video
Do you think a flip up platform on the front would help? Maybe an extra foot in front of the saw as a feed to add stability underneath would work? That’s always been my sore point with the jobsite saws. Not enough space in front of the blade. Even for crosscut sleds it’s hard to have a big enough one to be usable while still being stable. I like your table but I think I would want to extend it so that there is more infeed as well as the longer arm such as what you have. Great idea! thanks for sharing it.
What part o-canada are you in? I’m in Kingston. Glad to see another Canadian on here. I’ll take a look around and see what you build.
very nice indeed! I’m going to implement this hack on my DeWalt table saw.
I’ll consider using 4 bolts, because I will be swapping the 60 mm fence with 150 mm tall fence (to be able to clamp the pieces vertically for tenon cuts for example).
with 4 bolts I’ll use 2 tracks to prevent the taller fences from tipping.
that tracks in the fence allow adding any jig you can think of: stop block to name one.
thanks!
Great suggestion. Thank you. I suggest adding an attachment (an L shape) to the backside of the extrusion that will provide vertical support to the work piece in advance of the table.
Thumbed up just for your use of the word dramatically!
Are you sure that’s 80/20?
Looks like 20/40 to me.
Good idea as the DW tube fences are contractor and not cabinet grade in terms of flatness/accuracy – then again, so is the saw for that matter although it’s a darn good one. Check the runout across your 8020E though as they are not all made equal.
Nice casual-cool-sexy-dj-voice-posturing bro.
I just finished constructing this terrific mod for my Dewalt saw. I did a couple of changes to the design to meet my needs which added a bit of time to the job. I used 1x 3 80/20 both for the main piece (4 ft) and the backing piece (a cut down 2ft piece). I used the aluminum rather than wood for the back piece to stiffen the fence a bit more. I wanted it to fit over the 4 screw heads in the back to take advantage of the internal plastic fence frame. This involved grinding the rear of the aluminum to fit over the screws. Worth the trouble. As I don’t have a drill press, it was not so easy to line up the holes through both aluminum pieces as well as the fence. I used a 90 degree drilling block for that and eventually got what I wanted. I used Star Knobs to tighten the t bolt . They work great…..spin them with your finger. But space is tight on the backside with the aux fence locked in, so I had to Dremel the length of the t bolts so that everything fit. But it all works great and I thank Canadian Woodworker for this video
Great video, great idea.
Also, I could listen to Canadians say words with the "ou" sound all day long: out, about, house
Hi, thanks for sharing, any tricks for drilling the existing fence?
I just did this same thing to my Metabo C10RJS table saw, as well as to my Delta Cruzer miter saw. It makes a world of difference, not only with ease of use but with accuracy as well.
One of my many quirks / idiosyncrasies is the verbalization of ahh’s, umh’s & uhs of which you have managed to prolifically utilized! I will mute your video & 2x the speed in hope of getting through your rendition of an interesting concept.
I like your way of comfortable speaking
Actually aluminum has no memory. So if it’s bent it won’t go back into its original shape as steel would. But 8020 can take a lot of pressure. Also if you add more t slot bolts to the original fence and that should take care of the spacing. When using only two mounting points it can creat a bow in the 8020
Hi there, what a great idea. I was wondering how you measure the exact height where to drill the holes?
Much better than the length of steel shelf bracket support that I have been using!
Fascinating. Thank you. I, like circa 1720 in the comments below, have a Bosch, but I think it’ll work.
I opted for 1030 profile which would give me a higher track for mounting featherboards. How high up did you drill the holes in the fence and what size drill bit did you use.
Another upgrade you can do to the fence it attach a piece of wood to the bottom of the fence to support the material you are cutting. Great idea. I will surely add this to my table saw.
You say ummmm to much bro
Hey mate can you check if you have this problem on your table saw ?https://youtu.be/Oz_A0rLSFzk
This will definitely help with straighter cuts. I’ve been over taxing my jobsite saw (only table saw) with building cabinets. So my main issue with the saw is that it barely cuts 24" as it is now and cabinets are typically 35" or more. What I’m saying is that my saw is already limited with cutting width, and I don’t want to limit it any more. Lol.
This is great. But I would also use track bolts to add a (maybe 2-3 inch wide) flat infeed surface to help the piece going in straight.