First TWO Hand Planes You Should Buy
First TWO Hand Planes You Should Buy
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I get asked this a lot. What is the first Hand Plane I should buy? To that I answer, these are the first two Hand Plane’s you should buy – Jack Plane and a Rabbet Block Plane.
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Why not get a one low jack rabbet plane all in one Jimmy Diresta style…boooyah
Hey man, good video but the background music is kinda loud.
Yes have to agree I’ve just got my first few Stanley 4 and 5 planes for very low costs and I’m looking at these expansive block planes and wondering how the vintage ones stack up :/
When i start 2 years ago i was following suggestion from this video, and it led me to the wrong direction.. No.. It should be No.4 smoothing plane and No.5
A Rabbit plane lol , its Rebate
Great video, thanks for the info!
Can you post the links to buy these planes from?
I like the recommendations. Would enjoy a slightly longer video with more information, however.
Thanks a lot for your great advise man.. i appreciate it 👍
Great advice Matt, I hope to have the budget for those one day. Until I do I will make do with my good old Stanley No. 5 and 62 1/2…thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Good intro, I will buy my first two planers in a minute
I agree, Mathew.
Already have a Veritas low angle block plane. Just ordered a low angle jack plane and two blades of different angles. I had ordered, but cancelled, an order for their medium shoulder plane. Now I’m thinking the low angle rabbit plane may be the most economical option for what i want to do at this stage of my wood working journey. Thank you for this video! It was really helpful!
What about the toothed blades from veritas? Do you use them?
Agree about the block rabbet but then a 5 ½ Jack. You can get two blades for the 5 ½, too. Pop a 20° bevel on the back of the second blade then you can use it on really stinky grain because the planing angle is now 65°.
What a coincidence. I only own two planes……and those two are the exact ones I own. Got the Veritas low angle jack based on Mark Spagnolo’s / Popular Woodworking recommendation. Then bought the Lie Nielsen rabbet block based on Samurai Carpenter’s glowing review.
So interesting. I’ve never heard someone suggest that you can use a smoother for everything. But that makes sense!
I definitely have my eyes on that "Jack Rabbet" Block.
The smaller block planes often don’t have the leverage. Unless you can get something with a handle, I would look for a different option. Having 5 LA planes myself, I think it’s actually better to get the normal bevel down planes. You have much less tareout issues with hardwood and they are only more intimidating in appearance. LA planes works for softwood or wood with fairly friendly grain and planing characteristics.
Have both of them 🙂
Why don’t you just get the veritas low angle jack rabbet plane
What’s the brand name of the rabbeting plane?
Great info and it’s funny because my first two planes were a Lie Neilson rabbet block and a Veritas jack
Thanks for the information. Helped me answer the question. Thanks
Yes. I too find I get multiple tools in one… when I buy multiple tools at once.
On a more serious note: Very informative, especially for someone looking to get their first plane.
Thanks great video I’ve been wondering about the Veritas for a while…feel an order coming on thanks again.
I just got the veritas LAJ plane… should I flatten the back of the new blade with the ruler trick like rob cosman does? I’m not sure if this is appropriate for bevel up planes…
Could not agree more…….Excellent advice.
I see where this would be ideal to have both of these planes but a lot of new woodworkers would look at those prices and be very intimidated and not want to spend $450 or so. If this was your real “first” plane it would have to be a no.5 jack plane. Choose your make and model and learn how to tune and sharpen and you will have great results.
Side note… these 2 planes are my fav in my collection and I use them for 90% of my jobs.
Very new to wood working and am setting up a garage shop. I did a heap of research and came to the same conclusion then I found this video and it confirmed it for me! Good to know my learning isn’t awry. Golden tip to get two blades for the Jack, earned a subscribe.
Excellent video, as always. These are the first 2 I bought. Both Quangsheng brand here in the U.K., I think they’re excellent value.
I also have a toothing iron for my jack, shifts a huge amount of material.
Got a veritas LAJ, 38,50 degrees blade
Just bought quansheng /luban/dictum rebat plane with adjustable mouth and 32 degrees blade.
The edges are little bit sharp.
A file and some 1000 grid sandpaper will remove it.
The mouth had some small burs.
Again same sandpaper
The blade isn’t very sharp. So use their free sharpening service when you order any dictum brand planes/scissels.
The blade is 99,9%straight.
My extra blade is sharpened to 30 degrees (max) and extremely sharp, used their free service on this one. That’s how I know the difference.
The sole is 99.95% flat
It has some very minor dents 2cm behind the mouth. These dents are on both sides and 1,5cm long 6mm wide and 0,01mm deep.
It’s about 730gr, 20cm long 5cm wide.
This little beauty costs just under 80 euro
Two expensive choices for someone’s first planes.
I usually recommend much less expensive Stanley planes for people to learn how to sharpen the irons on, adjust and use.
You can get into the two Stanley’s for under a hundred dollars compared to the nearly $400.00 for the planes you showed.
Awesome outstanding review! I just realized my WR 5-1/2 jack + block planes are just entry level practice tools. Sure they’re both good for daily use but having watched this video and the features of the better planes I can see why I’d want to upgrade. The WR jack plane can theoretically do whatever you want, if you feel like moving the frog back and forth and deal with alignment. Its awesome that on yours you have a mouth that you can easily size on the go. Also, WR block plane never quite fit in my hand well. I realize now its just too damn bulky! Will look to purchasing some higher end planes over time while I use my existing planes to hone my workflow and get better at hand tool work. Thank you Matt! Very helpful and informative.
Music is overpowering.
there is a Highland woodworking video with another take on this subject regarding your eventual tool budget. in a video about the Lie-neilson low angle jack, he sings the praises of the plane and its versatility, then at the end, he makes a good point. If your budget is to only have a few planes, then these two are good choices, If your budget is such that you will be adding more planes, the high end Jack-of-all-trades plane will one day be a very expensive shooter board plane. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKmLRYmI8e8
Exactly the choices I’m rendering and talking with Lie-Nielson on now. Nice presentation short and to the point.
Do you ever cut rabbets with this block plane? If so, I’d love to see how you do it. I have this plane but haven’t been able to get consistent results with it.
I have these… maybe I should use them.
I have the Veritas LAJ and it’s as good as advertised. I shoot, smooth and joint with it.
And now I have the LN RBP on order. A process of exploration was had.
Grizzly Tools has wood planes they also have a plane set for beginners
After watching a bunch of reviews, but not this one, and ogling a lot of catalogs, the first premium plane I bought was a Lie-Nielsen 60 1/2 rabbet block plane. Then I got the Veritas 62 1/2 low angle jack. My thinking was the same as yours, but it’s neat to see someone else saying it. That said, I already had some contractor grade Stanleys–a 4, 5, and low angle block plane, so I wasn’t without a plane while I saved up. If I were starting from scratch, I think I might go for the Wood River versions–although the price difference for the low angle jacks wasn’t so much. I’ve recently added the L-N 4 1/2, which is a work of art, and am saving for a L-N 7 next. Eventually, I’ll get a L-N 5 1/2, but the low angle jack makes it a lower priority.
I will say, I wouldn’t be happy with the 60 1/2 as my *only* block plane. It’s versatile, but my old Stanley is more comfortable for the things I use a block plane for most often.
Oh, and I got a Veritas router before the 4 1/2, but I haven’t actually used it much, yet.
I’ll just be that pedant and say "it depends." However, this is a very good and versatile combination. I think most folk look critically into which planes they should buy after having already receiving or bought a plane or two. I inherited a no. 4, and bought a no. 65 after needing to clean up some small miters. Had I seen this kind of advice first, I likely would have gone block-rabbet. That being said, since ‘the train has already left the station,’ I’m more inclined to get any rough no. 5/6/28 next as my fore plane, and then save my money towards a dead-flat jointer. I may be an odd case, but I jumped into chair making, and I’ve yet to do the typical mortise and tenon, but rather use cylindrical stretchers/legs with tapered tenons and matched reamed conical mortises. As an apartment dweller, I don’t see myself having ready access to a surface planer any time soon, so spending towards a dedicated thicknessing and surfacing set up makes sense. I’m inclined to say the projects you’re interested in, as well as your other tools, should dictate what planes to get. Although, I appreciate if someone’s starting out, they may not realize what typing of woodworking will end up suiting them best.
How about a dedicated shoulder and a normal block…? Does this one replace a dedicated shoulder plane?
thanks for the infos buddy!
Best advice for joiner’s endeavors
After initial research I came up with the exact two planes you showed, with second blade. As I save money I see other opinions, and am considering a L-N #5 Jack instead.
I would suggest a a good second hand Stanley or Record No 3 or 4 and a 5 1/2 or 6 depending on what size projects you intend to be doing. With the money you save get a good quality 3" X 10" 1000/300 diamond plate and a honing guide. I have the Veritas LA Jack and it is a joy to use but it has limited use with the standard 25 degree blade and the £50 38 degree blade makes it a good No 5 but it’s no better than my fettled standard No 5 or 5 1/2.