Hand Planing Wood – How to Prevent Tear Out
Hand Planing Wood – How to Prevent Tear Out
Hand Planing Wood -How to Prevent Tear Out. Tear out is a hand tool woodworker’s nightmare, but in this video on hand planing wood Rob Cosman shows you the techniques to prevent and to repair tear out. Rob is a master at hand planing wood and will show you all the technisues he has developed over the years to prevent tear out. So throw away your scraper, sharpen up your blade and start hand planning wood without the fear of tear out….even on highly figured wood
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outstanding techniques, skill and patience. It really makes the results you get
If you want to get tear out try planing into some huge nasty nightmare inducing live knots …you know what I’m talking about lol
Great video, would love to see a test on cherry. Having a hard time with German grown cherry wood, when it changes the grain direction.
Interesting that Rob wasn’t a fan of placing the cap iron tight to the edge of the blade, as advocated by several other experts who claim this cures tear-out without the need for high angle blades. If the experts disagree, what hope is there for the rest of us?
When you turned the oak board around, you could clearly see the wood completely change appearance on the first pass as the fibres got laid down. Great camera work 👍
What kind of wax do you use and where do we find it?
Please try White Ash! I’m continually having a difficult time planing Ash without causing tear out. Thank you!
You should try japanese planes
I agree with you with respect to the chip breaker setting. As 72 year old does it make sense for me too hand plane large glued up panels?
This video is great! I am making a white oak bench and my planes are chewing up the wood very bad even after a good sharpening (tested on pine and cuts like butter) I will be sharpening my blades to 65°, Thank you Rob.
Don’t have a question but just wanted to say I used my LN 5 1/2 plane to put the 24 inch long taper on the 30 inch long 4 legs of the writing desk I am making. Took forever, but it was so relaxing and satisfying to make table legs that look better than a table saw with tapering jig.
When you pull your plane back across the wood for the next stroke you can hear the scratching sound how does that benefit either the wood or the blade, I would think it would either scratch or compress the wood or round over the bottom of your plane blade.
Does WoodRiver offer different frog pitches (e.g. york, etc.)?
I might be a little confused. I thought you had to put a high angle frog in a bailey type plane (isn’t that what you were using?) in order to get a higher angle setup for wood susceptible to tearout. In your video you changed irons to do this.. How is that done? Thanks.
There are 5 dislikes so I can only assume that the white oak, quilted maple, bird’s eye, claro and purple heart boards all have internet access
I found that I had small tear outs with African Mahogany but they tore out a lot. It seemed easier to plane it sideways.
Rob do you have a video on how to make a 65° blade setup? I would like to make one for my Stanley! Always enjoy your videos and your style of teaching! Always a lot of good tips to understand! Steven Columbus Michigan USA
Maybe something is missing: I found iroko to be a bad ass to plane, always dealing with curly grain and never got rid of tear out…
What kind of lubricating stick wax Rob is using?
sorry, i know this question is kind of hard to answer but i really need a master’s opinion on thing like this because it is kind of hard to choose.
Great demonstration Rob, thanks.
What are your thoughts about machining troublesome wood close to finished thickness if you don’t have a segmented head, any tips?
"I’m not a huge believer in having the chip breaker close to the edge " . I think you should do a video where you’re trying different positions of the chip breaker. Because when I set my chip breaker close to the edge of the blade I can go in any grain direction without any tear out. I know that you have a ton of experience and that you are a real master, but I just found that comment a bit chocking. I use Stanley type chip breakers , I don’t know if that makes any difference?
I’m just starting to plane wood to finish vs. sanding. It’s almost like you’ve seen my struggles and made this for me. And I appreciate it. Another great video. Well done!
Wher’s my pencil… 😀
Magnificent work, thanks a lot master. This really helped me.
Did you simply change the frog to get a 65 degree or do you have a dedicated high angle plane?
I see your using the wood River planes. Do you like them? If so, what do you prefer about the wood River apposed to the other makers
I didnt like you teased with a bunch of woods and showed planing three.
that walnut is beautiful wood
I live in the UK. Where can I buy the wax stick you use on the bottom of your plane? If I can’t get it here, what would you suggest as an alternative?
I have a plank of Bolivian Rosewood, no matter what I try the tear out is awful.
Tools. I bought a cheap no name smoothing plane with the ambition of restoring a solid kitchen table after serving our family of three kids for 20 years. I made a horrible mess with tearout and who knows what. I practically ruined it and left me wondering what to do.
Since then I’ve followed a lot of your valuable advice and bought a recommended plane along with many other things and managed to make my table respectable again.
I did try to sharpen by hand but sorry to say I had to succumb to a sharpening jig to make my blade look respectable.
Again, thank you very much Rob for making these videos.
What I learned here was that the most effective way to avoid tearout is to sharpen like Cosman. I can’t sing like Pavarotti either.
Great video and very useful as I have often encountered difficult grain in the timbers available to me. With regards to the "65" are you talking about the frog angle or simply an increased bevel on your cutting iron?
I have a plane with a dedicated increased frog angle but if altering the angle on a spare blade I will most likely sell the other plane. Many thank
What do scrubs do that do not posses a power plane and need to plane before the surface finish and only get the cheap wood with grain going its own way.
Hey Rob ive had trouble planing Sapele. Any suggestions?
What is the type of wax Rob using?
When sharpening, at what point do you resurface the primary bevel ? My secondary just keeps growing and growing and I’m not sure if there’s a rule of thumb of if/when I should grind the primary angle back down so it’s a fresh edge for secondary bevel..hopefully this made sense.
You briefly mentioned, but didn’t show (probably because you got it done with the plane) how a scraper might have fixed the tear out. Were you thinking about a simple flat scraper or something more involved, like a lie Nielsen scraper plane? Would a simple flat scraper and possibly changing direction in the middle of the board work?
Hi. That is, to achieve an angle of 65 degrees, I simply grind the spare blade at an angle of 20 degrees, put it in the same way as in the plane low angle fax up. And how to fasten a chipbreaker? In a video with an angle of 65, you have a chipbreaker installed.
I know many woodworkers want to grow and learn, but eliminating problem boards has changed things for the better for me. It can be difficult to always try to have a perfect piece of wood but man, many of my problems have been solved by being very picky about wood choice .
I plane with the plane pointing straight down the board. Would it help with tearout to have the plane at an angle like you do as it travels down the board? Does that skew help reduce/prevent tearout.
Not forgetting the old trick of wetting the surface of the wood slightly. Not a brilliant method, steel vs water being an issue, but it worked reasonably well when machine planing and thicknessing gnarly timbers.
I really regret not learning how to use the tools I had/have, some 30 years ago, until watching Mr Cosman, what a wonderful teacher.
A bit tangential, but looking at that piece of walnut there appears to be a lot of large pores. What would you use to fill those?
I have to ask is your purpose for planing wood for surface preparation or for removing stock. When I pick up a plane I’m wanted to reduce the stock size by a fractional amount much as you would with a scrub plane or to take the twist out of a board. Am I missing some here?
Great tips Rob, I was hoping you would have some highly figured black walnut, this stuff is a nightmare.
Great information. Rob does a great job. I still can’t stand how he pulls each shaving out after every stroke. I’m always looking to become more efficient and… yeah.
Can you do a video on hand planing edges on super long boards in order to get a super crisp glue seam? That would be fantastic!
hi rob would you prefer a no 5 or no 5 1/2 in terms of all rounder everything, but if you had smaller hands.