HOW-TO: Apply a Wipe-On Finish to Fine Woodworking
HOW-TO: Apply a Wipe-On Finish to Fine Woodworking
A 5-minute lesson on how to apply a simple, wipe-on finish to fine woodworking. Easier than polyurethane and more repairable, watch and see how it’s done. When it comes to wipe-on wood finish, different products involved somewhat different application processes. That’s why it’s important to understand the differences between different wipe-on finish products and learn proper application techniques when applying them to fine woodworking.
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Is it food safe ???
I’m confused as to why regular polyurethane is not all that repairable but the wipe-on polyurethane is…
This dude has to be gavin mcginnis man. I feel like I’m being trolled hahaha to good. Love the video man really good info and entertaining
Good method, will try it next time as i found that just wiping is VERY slow. On some wood (veneer) It took me 20 or more layers just to get it thick enough to start any real sanding/polishing. Should’ve used brush from the start instead of wiping those first 5-10 layers that get soaked/fill all the dimples anyway.
can you add a tint to the polyurethane to add a little color and avoid having to use a stain process beforehand ( would be a great time saver ) thanks !
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See http://www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at http://youtu.be/2eNP5QtrKO4
Can I use this wipe on poly to finish the top of a dining room table? How many coats should I do? Can I also use your finishing technique sanding with 320 or 400 and using the scuff pads on the dual orbital sander?
Thank You 👍🏻👍🏻
Followed your excellent video after staining my sanded 19c chestnut vanity for my bathroom renovation. It came out perfectly, looks very professional. Thankyou
I really like the tone of this video. Reminds me of Bob Ross.
Woodprix has very good designs and plans.
Ive learned a new technique. Thank you Sir!
What do you recomend for sealed a sideboard big size? Because when you have a big surface is so difficult to find a technic to make it prefect without strokes or others marks. I tryed using varathane poly water base with sponge and brush but in darks colors you can see all the shades of the product. thank you
I just tried this product, followed the instructions on the back and pretty much the way you did it and very disappointed with the end result. I think I will stick to the traditional polyurethane for now on. Thank You!
I prefer to use a foam brush versus the chip brush to apply as the chip brush always likes to leave behind bristles in my finish. Don’t like picking those out.
I thought with a wipe on Polly you was supposed to use a rag to apply it and a brush for the brush on Pollys.
Very informative video. thanks for posting!
Is there a benefit to applying 1 or 2 coats of shellac first?
While not a BAD video, there are a few "Nope!" moments. Like brushing it on and then rubbing it all off? No reason at all to do that! Start with a cloth applicator to begin with. Buying the pre-mixed wipe-on? Nope…mix your own.
Thanks. 3:21 Why sand it ? After it’s all done, would it be safe and 100% not poisonous/cancerous to touch it once dried ? How long would it last ? Is the protection good for water and greases ?
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See @t for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at @rKO4
It’s far cheaper to mix your own using mineral spirits and a can of satin polyurethane. A can of wipe on poly is quite expensive for what you get, so much better to make your own. I like to start out with a 50-50 mix, and then for the final coats maybe 1 to 3. I’ve seen one guy use 600 grit sandpaper when applying the final finish, so it can come out with that really hand rubbed look and super smooth. A final coat of beeswax is quite nice too.
how long should i wait before applying the next coat. and what grid of sand paper should i sand between them.
Can I use the wipe on poly on top of tung oil treated wood ?
I’ve been using this stuff for years. I am currently refinishing a dulcimer made in the 80’s out of walnut. The soundboard, the top of the instrument, is book matched on either side of the fret board. I know little about how wood is cut, but I am on my third coat and the wood is still absorbing the poly on the soundboard. I am using a microfiber for the application and it works well though it does leave chunks of fiber on the piece. I am buffing in between coats with 0000 steel wool and blowing it out with an air compressor and then rubbing it down with a tack cloth. For some reason, that sound board is going to take many coats until the grain is fully filled. Why is that?
Can this be applied over the Watco Danish Oil?