How to Cut a Straight Edge on Crooked Boards
How to Cut a Straight Edge on Crooked Boards
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Learn how to cut a perfectly straight edge on crooked boards with a simple fixture and portable tablesaw. The method I teach in this video is very useful for doing framing work on remodeling projects because it allows you to salvage crooked boards for non-typical framing or furring applications and save straight boards for places where you really need them.
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DeWalt DW745 Jobsite Tablesaw seen in this video:
How Far Out Gauge:
My favorite cordless drills by Makita:
Snappy drill/countersink bit set with carbide tips are well worth the extra cost:
Snappy drill/countersink bit set Made in USA:
Makita Cordless Saw kit:
Clic-Readers glasses are the BEST!
3M Band Style Hearing Protector:
Stanley 25′ tape measure:
Crick’s beautiful and functional 48″ walnut & maple level:
Papermate Sharpwriter mechanical pencils… the ONLY ones I use!
Here’s a link to the How Far Out Gauge review I did which is somewhat related to the content in this video:
And this link shows How to Cut Super Shims using a fixture and method similar to this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGK3w2I_Bms&t=2s
Do you have any suggestions as to what to use for the straight edge that’s 16′ long? We’re wrapping an 18′ beam in our living room and wanted to use as few boards as possible so we bought 16′ 1×12 western red cedar.
5 years later and you are still helping
Although this does work I do agree that it’s to much work I work with alot of reclaimed lumber the Principle of this is to get a constant frame of reference to cut a straight line I use an 8 foot level that I clamp to my fence so the board is in full contact with the straight edge at all times takes 2 secs to set up and you get a straight cut every time
Thanks the video.
Thank you boss it helps me a lot new subcriber here
Esse trabalho todo para cortar uma madeira reta? Putz
Helpful and well done. Thanks.
You could cut the warp off and re-glue the cut off to the other side and get both side straight. The 2×4 would be 1 blade thickness thinner that a normal 2×4, not too bad
Screw another two scraps of plywood to your 2×4 block. Then you can be sure is absolutely square when you screw the block to your straightening board. Remove the scraps and fit your “proper” end stop plywood.
Trouble is your leaving screw holes in your workpiece.
Great idea , one more reason to own a table saw
For the purpose of framing you don’t need to straighten the 4×2 perfectly though. I’d snap a chalk line and rip the board with a circular saw.
Great video. Thank you
Great video, thanks for sharing this
This is great for barn wood or rough cut hardwoods.
Thank you for drawing attention to how dangerous twisted boards can be 🙏🏼
Good job on the video. Like others, I can also learn new tricks from you. However I noticed your roller stand has what looks like a thin plywood ramp on it. I’m sure you have a video on it but I’m new to your library and wondering if you can direct me to the video you made to modify the stand. Sometimes the details are worth learning too.
Thanks.
Why would you straighten (decrease dimensions) of a piece of structural lumber on a job site? Where would the piece be used? Framing needs the full nominal dimensions not reduced dimensions. I would say that the ‘on the job site’ constraint was used so that an inferior method could be demonstrated. Turning 2x structural lumber into 5/4 lumber is a valid need but there are better fixtures for that.
Theres 16 mins ill never get back this video could have been 3 mins long and shared all of the same information
Bro, I know how to do this with only 2 steps! This method way too long!!!
Too much work bra… just go purchase another BOARD!!! bra.
love your straight-to-the-point instructional vids.
You always have simple and straight forward helpful videos. Thx for the info 👍
You just spent 200 dollars in material and time to save a 3 dollar board
Why does everu American tradesman have a helper named Chip ??
So many American "how to do it" videos ramble on about sharp saws and guide rails that are true BUT we then see that the crown guard and riving knife have been removed and there is zero dust extraction ???. So much for basic observance of health & safety!!! The height of arrogance for the YT "how to do it right" types is assuming that they are working safely when they remove two of the most important safety features on a table saw. Thumbs down on this.
I might add that in Europe many public liability insurers will walk away from a claim if the saw is missing the Riving Knife and or the Crown Guard….
For wood that’s bowed the other way, across the wider side, I’m assuming that’s pretty much a lost cause?
Thanks for sharing your video. I enjoyed watching. Take care and God Bless.
How to find a bowed board? Just walk into Home Depot lol
Yup, that certainly looks like a 2×4 purchased from Home Depot. I’ve seen worse, even boards with a 10 deg. twist along the longitudinal axis.
Other Youtubers should take note on the way you spoke about the liking and subscribing. You put it at the end too. Most youtubers spam the first minute or two begging for you to like and subscribe, but the thing is you dont know what their content is yet! 😂 Thanks. Liked and subscribed 😜
Really nice yet not overly complicated approach. Also really like the ramp added to the roller stand. Great idea there too. Thanks for taking the time to make the video to share your experience and thoughtful solutions with others. 👍
I hope some one reads this question: can you just use your fence as the straight edge? I’m by confused by that part?im new to this. Thanks
Now iam understanding great video knowledge is top ty
I’m a video editor trying to learn carpentry… maybe we can do a trade 😂
I use a simpler method for straightening crooked lumber on the jobsite: I buy more lumber than I need. I cull out the crooked lumber, and return it to the store and get my money back for it. 😊
Why don’t you use three hold-down blocks? It supports the middle of the workpiece timber and gives you another push-point.
Just asking not trying to be smart A.
If you cut straight down the middle you can glue the two halves together cup to bow. It wastes less wood and “might” cancel out any remaining internal tension.
this is great! I get free wood from work, its always bowed so this is going to be very helpful! thanks
the real deal!! Very professional. Thanks.
guaranteed you would be able to find lots of bowed 2x4s if you WERNT looking for them…
Great job
Nice job but you need a lot of crooked boards to make it worthwhile.
This gave me an idea. I’m going to use my Bora circular saw track guide and two small blocks to attach with double stick tape so I don’t have to drill wholes in my material
Appreciate your knowledge. God bless.
Thanks, just what I was looking for!
pretty neat, especially for when u dont have a workshop at hand, thx ^^ also i like this method better than the stacking one i think
Thanks for the video – I used some of the techniques you demonstrated in my latest project – https://youtube.com/shorts/EqXBDKUzqb8?feature=share
This really helped me out! I’m starting to branch into woodworking and get away from the construction field so learning all the tips and tricks from you have been so helpful! I will say I did modify your jig for it to be suitable for woodworking and so on. I used 3” wide MDF by 8’ and used toggle clamps from Harbor Freight and screwed it down atop the MDF, and it works like a charm.
This will help me a lot thanks for in-depth video thanks ❤
Why not srewing the OSB on top of the crooked board? So you won’t need the whole construction!?