How To Make Curved Inlay
How to make a curved through inlay using a lamination technique.
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ha man id love to have a beer with this guy
you’d get more subscribers if you were actually drunk while woodworking. say you take a shot every time you setup and execute a new cut. you could show how gory it is to cut off a finger. think of the public awareness potential.
What bandsaw blade works best?
Have you tried this again? I am curious, would it work to just cut the curves with the band saw then glue up the inlay (lamination for all the wood working Nazis)… then just cut off the extra wood from the end of the lid to bring it back to the correct final dimensional size to fit the box?
Seems to me the use of the router is primarily to remove an exact amount of wood, and is a two step process.
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that is a lamination, not an inlay. you must be drunk! har har har.
Hello there, I have requested your DVDs, for simpler and quicker approach to manufacture a shed woodplans.works I trust the substance are as you guaranteed it will be. Just I’m worried with the substance, it won’t be anything but difficult to settle on a decision from the various plans.
Very stressful glue up I’m sure but came out great!!
Why not cut all the way down with the router and skip the bandsaw altogether? Cheers Dan
one of the better videos that show some good tips on inlay/strips, especially blocking the wood on top and bottom to prevent bowing during glue-up.
You should reverse the direction of your routing – you are routing uphill ( as it’s called ) – ie- against unsupported grain – you are likely to get some tear out this way depending on the severity of the curve -if you had flipped the piece over and used a top bearing bit the cut would have been much smoother…
Very interesting method!
You have to check out this new method for inlays using ImagePaint software: http://www.amazoncanvas.com
It looks cool but its not inlay its closer to markets then inlay
Nice video. Next time, try just making the router channel and tapping your veneer strip inlay into that without cutting the piece with the band saw. It would make for a much easier project.
Dude, I love your videos. I wish I had one tenth the talent you have. That said, you could do this very easily on a scroll saw.
The steps are so simple but I still get small gaps. Your video is helping a lot, thanks man!
Mate I love your videos I have just retrained as a wood work teacher in Australia and cant wait to show the students some of your tips
I’m late to this discussion, but I try anyway.
I have a square piano made in ca 1820 and it has the most perfect both straight and curved inlays. How in the world did they make the grooves for the inlays at this time? This was way before the woodworking router was invented.
You know I be a complete ahole to expect you to do something without screwing up.
you do not seem to be very drunk??
Ik..this is a older vid..it showed up in my feed for some reason …this isnt even inlay its panelling or laminating..nice but not not inlay..
So I did it too 😀 just using Stodoys woodworking plans 🙂
Nice. If you don’t mind me asking, where did you get that one saw? The one where you were just pulling it back to score the veneer.
Thats cool but as far as i know thats not an inlay , its a laminate. am i wrong?
YOU did a nice job. It was explained very well.
The stodoys site offers plans for this and many other interesting items.
Love this guy
Excellent work! Cause were I’m living inlay kit or guide bushing are impossible to find and ordering them on the web takes long time to arrive, instead of use it why simply use a spiral or straight bit with the Router base profile as bearing following the template side? Correct me please if this is wrong. Hoping I make you understand thanks again for your excellent video and work.
Just curious, do you not use something to cover the bar on your parallel clamps? If not, how do you clean the glue off the bar part? Wouldn’t it be better to put some tape or something to keep them from getting glue on them?
My god maaan. If you already cut mdf, you could place any piece of board between mdf and clamps to stiffen it.
Did You make it with woodprix instructions?
Technically your laminating the timber together, because the material goes from one side of your work piece to the other. Inlay is just a contrast of different materials housed into one side of your work piece.
WOW!!! I subbed a longtime ago but seem to have lost you in the haze. I just glued up a 12" X12" block of 2.5" walnut then cut with band saw a double curve a little tighter than yours. I planed three pieces of maple to .1" and clamped (attempted to clamp) it all back together. the walnut cracked. I was going for a white river look. So I made a shim of blood wood glued and drove it in. My thinking is this will now be a North marker. Tomorrow I pull it out and see what I have. I wish you could have been there to say "this won’t work you haven’t removed enough wood" I would have bought you very nice cold beer!!!
Ecellent technique.Now to find the time tto do it.
When I use the flush trim bit to flush up both pieces, I get horrible tear-out. This has happened twice now. Any ideas?
This is a lamination process…well done
Yes you can use a jigsaw if you don’t have a bandsaw!
why not use a couple small dowels to align the glue up? maybe slot the strips, a dowel 1/2 inch in on each side. I understand it’s curved but should be able to get the dowels aligned.
Good job sir. Your method gives a inlay look on both sides and ends of the board. Always good to have as many methods as possible in your woodworking arsenal . Woodwork is not about speed but satisfaction with the end result. Thanks much
Sooo Thankful you improved your audio
okay not so bad! cheers :’)
nice job – well done
i know this is an older video bu tthat for posting. I’ll give this a shot this week.
Not really what I would call an inlay, more a curved laminate.Nice effect though.
That looks awesome. Correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t this a lamination, not an inlay? Isn’t an inlay a veneer? Here’s how I would think an inlay would go: route a 1/4" deep groove, cut strips to 3/8", glue and place in groove, then plane down excess. Am I under-thinking it?
Hi David! Beautiful work. I too am drunken. Question for ya – why move to the bandsaw after routing with the straight bit vs. routing all the way through? [Assuming your bit cut depth is long enough for the stock]. Many thanks!
Friggin’ hipsters have infiltrated yet another manly pastime…