Jig for edge jointing on a table saw | Mere Mini shop project
Jig for edge jointing on a table saw | Mere Mini shop project
How to make a simple woodworking jig for edge jointing on a table saw. If you have a hard time finding toggle clamps locally, here’s an inexpensive one on Amazon: http://amzn.to/1plw5kp
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Made it today and it worked like a champ. Thanks.
you did that and made it look so simple !
hi, could you use this jig for the height? for a butcher block. thx
@steve Why dont you use the jointer jig to cut both edges? Thank you!
"You can also edge-join your boards with your MicroJig! Maker of the GRR-RIPPER."
Great video Steve!!!
Very pleased with my new jig – this worked out really well. Thanks. Your teaching style is so great
built this jig out of scraps i have lying around but found out the hard way that if the jig is shorter than the material i am trying to put a straight edge to is impossibly hard..
before having to order new materials to build another slightly longer jig, wanted to ask everyone else if i am missing something?
Отличный вариант! Спасибо!
Is there a reason why double busting wouldn’t work? Like you do with wallpaper.
Can you show how to flatted wood with table saw…the easier way..pls
Just made this today. Works perfectly and saved me from buying a bench jointer. Many thanks!
Steve, I am very late to this party but I am loving all the stuff you are doing. One thing I am having issues with is getting the clamps you use in this video. When in the clamped position the handles are upwards, every single one including the ones in the link you supplied have the handle in the down flat position which means potential interaction with the fence. Yes, I will have to make the first cut board wider than the handles in the down position but the real problem is that none appear to have the grip or downward pressure that yours have. Any ideas please? BTW I am a total novice in this department.
Thanks for the great vid! This knowledge would take years to aquire without youtube
Can someone explain the use of this to me? I’m a newbie. What’s the reason you can’t just use your rip fence to run boards through for jointing?
Just made this for my new woodworking shop. Thank you Steve as you have taught me a lot!
I purchased the toggle clamps that you highlight. Unlike the ones you use in the video that push the handle up to secure the piece, the toggle clamps from Amazon push down to secure the piece. Because the guide piece is four inches, the handles extend past the straight edge and bump the fence. I probably need to cut my top piece to 5 inches, not four. Next weekend.
I’m going to try to make this over the weekend.
Why do you need two levels of straight edge plywood?
What is that thing called where he’s ripping along and fence. It’s yellow and black
I made this sled recently. The wood I am milling comes from plumbing pipe bundles and isn’t very wide, but I plan on doing wider boards as well. Here are some insights / questions. 1) Clamping out and away from the board did not work for me. I thought it had to be up against the clamp board for reference. 2) I have idea to make it adjustable, kinda like a feather board, for different width stock. Or is that over kill? Now that I re-watch it seems I did it as you demonstrate, but maybe did something differently and wrong. 3) 3/4 seems the way to go. 5) This works PERFECTLY for width. Any ideas for thickness? I pushed through my table saw with not so great results like saw marks, uneven cuts, burn marks, tripping breaker a bunch of times, etc. I have a Ryobi electric planer that I was thinking to use. Or is a bench top planer difficult to out do and worth investing?
How long is the jointer?
Thanks Steve, I just made one that works perfectly
That’s one mighty big straight scrap!
Very beginner question. When making the first cut you know it is propped up against a straight edge but how do you know the edge you are cutting isn’t angled?
How long is that jig? 30”?
Steve I just want to say thank you. As a true beginner at woodworking your videos are not only an inspiration but a major help! I will be building this jig for a stack of pallets I just got.
I could not get two pieces of oak to join together seamlessly as there was always a slight gap in areas between the boards….multiple cuts on my table saw did not make any difference…….obviously there was a defect in the side of the board butting up to the fence and even though I flipped the board a number of times, that gap continued to be there…….made the sled today and one pass and the boards now join together seamlessly…..thanks Steve…..you’re the best on YouTube!
This literally saves $400 for an actual jointer. Seriously, Steve, you’re my favorite woodworking Youtube channel… Comedic, informative, but most importantly, STRAIGHT TO THE POINT!
If the boards have a cup/twist or bow to them, I’m assuming the first step is to flatten it?
Thank you so much for this awesome jig
I’m new to wood working so I’m hoping someone can answer this question for me. Why wouldn’t I just rip both sides of the board against the Rip fence?
Lowe’s still doesn’t carry the toggle clamps. Had to order the ones in the description from Amazon.
Can someone explain why the thinner play wood can’t extend over the thicker one?
Hi Ramsey I’m trying this method but my cuts are not coming straight. Like slightly slanted. I checked blade with square and its 90 degrees. I even attached a rail for the ryobi ten inch table saw. Any recommendations? Thanks
Wouldn’t it work just as well with only one piece of plywood for the base? Why does it need two?
Brain Cramp Time…
I’m having a hard time understanding the point of this jig. I know the answer is very simple, which makes it all the more frustrating that I can’t figure it out.
So the idea is to avoid buying a costly, bulky jointer by creating a simple jig that will create 2 perfectly parallel edges using a table saw. I’ve seen several YouTube videos on this, and they all place the board on the jig with no concern for it being parallel to the long part of the jig or perpendicular to the front edge. You make a pass on the exposed edge, then remove the jig and make a second pass with the freshly cut edge against the fence. I see how that makes perfectly parallel edges. But what I don’t understand is why you can’t simply make both passes with the board pressed against the fence. Why is the jig necessary? Using the fence would result in 2 parallel edges, right? They won’t necessarily result in edges that are perfectly perpendicular to the end of the board. But the jointer jig doesn’t address that either! Or does it? So confused.
Hi Steve or everyone that can help. why do I need to use this jig for edge jointing and not using just the fence ? actually I tried to use the fence but both pieces of wood not joining nice and there are gaps along the edges. if the fence is parallel and square to the saw blade why I’m not able to use it without any jig? can someone explain me the logic here ?
The simpler, the better. Thanks very much.
What do you do for really long boards like 6 or 8 feet?
For this to work do you need to start off with a piece that’s already flush?
I’m pretty new to wood working and I’ve tried this not once but twice and my boards just aren’t coming out flush. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong.
Brilliant! And really easy to build.Thank you.
How come the edge where the clamps go wasn’t squared up after gluing and screwing? Because it’s a factory edge and even if it’s not perfectly parallel with the bottom board the cut will still be straight?
What tools are you using to move the boards while sawing them ?
By far the simplest video for this. Thank you.
Just to check my understanding – the point of this jig is that it will create a straight edge even when the other edge is not straight, right? Related question – are you more likely to get tear offs on the underside because the underside is not supported (which would be another reason why you’d cut the length to more than is needed)?
thank you. be happy. very nice.
Thank you sooooo much for sharing this cool jig!!! It rescued my table top project as I couldn’t figure out how to make a straight edge on store bought lumber. This is awesome 🙂