Jigsaw blades come in two main types: U-shanks or T-shanks called SDS. The T-shape jigsaw blade doesn’t need a tool to fasten it to the jigsaw. The U-shaped blade is used in older models. Most new jigsaws can use either jigsaw blade type. Some jigsaws may have different fittings – Makita has dedicated fittings.
According to its brand and its type, your jigsaw has a quick fixing system allowing compatible blades. On most electric machines, the blades usually attach without tools. Some older models require a set screw to be tightened.
Jigsaw blades vary in shape, denture, length and material for cutting hard or soft wood, soft metals like aluminum, steel HSS, bimetal, plastic or ceramic tile.
When cutting wood, choose a 6–10 tpi blade because the wider low areas between teeth (gullets) help clear sawdust.
Cutting metal or plastic sheets requires a higher tooth count and slower cut speed.
A 6-tpi blade will cut faster and moves straighter through thick material, but can create more chip-outs than a 10-tpi blade.
The blade cutting teeth are stated as teeth per inch (tpi). The teeth are different – heavy, medium, fine or angled, straight. The teeth are usually sharpened in a triangle facing upwards.
Jigsaw blades can be made of hard steel, a bi metal, or coated like tungsten, carbide powder.
Cut material with the good side down. Because the jigsaw cuts on the up-stroke, chipping occurs on the upper-facing surface of the material.
Also, there are specialty toothed blades that cut downward, or for cutting curves and circles.
If the work consists of unique material, then a special blade is available. You’ll recognize it right away thanks to its narrow form and forward facing teeth.
Fine-toothed blades are for the hardest metals. When using the finest toothing, cut at a low speed with cutting oil, otherwise the blade can carbonized from the heat.
Jigsaw blades are made to cut for ceramic and glass. These can be toothless and use water or oil to cool.
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