Jointer/Table Saw Combo
WW’nTip-of-Day #070: Jointer/Table Saw Combo
Because everybody rips boards down on the table saw wrong it is advisable to have some form of jointer available when processing on the table saw.
Bonus: SWAT – Southwest Area Turners Association
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I love your tips, but I have a concern. I do not have a lathe, jointer, hand jointer plane, sander, or any of that (expensive) stuff. I do have a table saw, band saw, scroll saw, drill press, and some good hand tools. So how can someone like me do what you show? The tenoning jig looked very complicated to make, and I don’t have the income to afford the other tools, but I still like woodworking. Suggestions?
As always great tips!
You speak of safety yet you have removed the guard from the saw blade. The guard is there to protect you and I and the table saw should always have this guard in place, the only exception is cutting deep rebates where the timber itself acts as a guard. I have used table swaps for over 50 years and my basic instruction was to never rip boards using a fence that is the full length of the table. Saw manufacturers make a specific fence for ripping boards that take the fence only as far as the leading edge of the blade. This is designed to eliminate the forces you describe. Ripping greenwood must never be done with a full length fence because the forces contained within green wood in particular can be spectacular to say the least and very dangerous. I am very impressed with your videos, please ensure that you instruct others to use tools with the safety factors built in by the manufacturer. Removing guards is the greatest safety crime one can commit in a workshop! At least that is what my instructor instilled in me 50 years ago and I have no reason to suggest it should be otherwise. It is wortheffort to do it safely.
I do the same thing with my Jointer. Ideally a track saw could be set up to do this work, but it would not be as efficient.
Wasn’t the rip cut at 9:00 the opposite of your advice? I’m confused…
Very helpful & timely video for me. I have been ripping 3×2 (2×3 US) for crate material to hold bee frames. I added a top to stop the wood riding up, & have to press quite hard transversely with a stick to keep things straight. An adjustable featherboard would likely help me. I cut about half way through & flip & occasionally get ridges where wood moves up to the stop. I used to correct everything with a hand plane, but it was taking too long & so now I use a second/hand jointer/thickness planer. It’s a lot more unpleasant needing ear, eye & lung protection, but things go faster & otherwise I run out of time. 19th century technology just isn’t fast enough for the time short needs of the 21st century. Thank you for sharing!
Always learn something. Thanks again Shawn…rr
Great to come across this video. 🙏
Although the method you mentioned can be incredibly dangerous with short boards if the board twists between the fence and the blade it could be disastrous for both the operator and the tool
Great information. I come from a metalwork background and the same tensions as you describe are in the cold rolled steel (which builds up stress due to the process) I used to machine this stuff in the milling machine. I never thought the same scenario would exist in wood. I’ll remember this. Thanks mate!
I didn’t realize I knew all that until you made it explicit, and explained exactly why. Of course, I make repeatable cuts the same way everyone else does. Now I’ll have to think more about why I do the things I do. I bet you did that on purpose.
Great info. Thanks!
On a side note, I’m curious. What price per top is the store paying you? What do they retail for? And why aren’t they in your online shop? 🙂
Yep, we all do the single fence set and rip, rip, rip. I’ve been actively using a table saw for over 15 years and never thought about the interior stress factor in this manner, so thank you for making me think in a different way, Shawn. Another possible option might be to set a stop on the side of the blade opposite the fence. That should give you the consistency of cut width while always having the larger less stressed piece against the fence… in theory, anyway.
I’m with you on SWAT! I had been wanting to go for several years, but finally got the opportunity last year. Absolutely awesome event and I can’t wait to go again this year. Best bang for your buck I’ve ever experienced!
Kinda helps explain the massive kickback we get when cutting 100mm thick boards
Question if your turning the wood dose it really matter if the wood is a perfect 90?
You are a great teacher. I enjoy watching your videos and always pick up something, whether a tip or something from your presentation style.
As a woodturner who cuts most of his spindle turning squares on a BS, I am scratching my head as to why you would put so much effort into top stock preparatio instead of resolving minute differences on the lathe. My rough cut squares are pretty rough cut since I am processing green wood most of the time. I will admit, milled lumber is nice to work with. But not enough for me to get out my jointer which I rarely use since I do almost no flat work unless I have to. Most of my turning stock would be just short of a safe length to joint on a jointer.
I was taught to never extend the fence past the halfway point of the blade when using lumber (as opposed to plywood or MDF) specifically because of this issue.
What’s your take on this method?
Love your videos but sorry to say that you are wrong on this one. Best way to saw your squares is to still use the fence for the small side but to use an initial spacer block for the distance so it won’t get squeezed… And push with the mitre sled
Thank you for this video,
Best explanation on what happens with the wood when you cut it 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hope this helps many be safer around there table saws and get the most from there wood
thank you . i am learning about the movement drivers me nuts lol . make cut and it moves ah the learning process
…and I find an 8 inch joiner is much more useful than a six inch.
It took me a while to figure out where you were going with this tip, but it makes so much sense with your explanation. I assume you have the jointer set for a minimal cut and loose very little timber.
I don’t have a jointer yet and was going to get one eventually for prepping rough cut wood, but now I have a good idea why I need one even for smaller cuts. Thanks for the cogent explanation.
Thanks Shawn for continuing to share your knowledge
Sorry that this is off the subject, but, I just received one of your t-shirts in the mail. And I must say it is a fantastic quality shirt, nice graphic design, and I am really happy with my purchase. Thank you for providing quality merchandise.
Great discussion Shawn, thanks for sharing it.
Great discussion as always.
But before I was just trying to figure out how to put a table saw in my condo, now I need to get a jointer in as well…