Makita circular saw adapter for rail guides – circ saw becomes track saw.
Makita circular saw adapter for rail guides – circ saw becomes track saw.
TIPS & TRICKS:
I’ve been meaning to do a follow up to this video but anyway here are some extra things I’d recommend.
1. The adapter is confusing to set up at first – just make sure you end up with the body of the saw over the track and cutting on the left side. (most plunge saws are right blade so it will look weird if you compare it to other youtube vids etc)
2. once you set it up and cut the rubber splinter guard try not to ever change the set up of the adapter bars ‘cos unless you get it dead nuts the second time it will either have a gap or eat away more and more of the splinter guard (and eventually the track itself as in my case) The important consequence there is that it will not be cutting on the line anymore so your cuts will be either too long or too short.
3. When it comes to making the money cuts (visible end grain etc) make sure the blade is really clean – even if it’s sharp, if the tips of the teeth are gummed up with crap it will not make as nice a cut as possible.
4. lastly – if at all possible don’t stop in the middle of a cut – steady pace with even forward and lateral pressure from start to finish.
5. really lastly – for making short cross cuts – because you need to have the track hanging off the end to get the cut started, it can tilt the whole track up and push it off your line – clamps or helper recommended.
6. The material on the track side is the keeper, the other side is the “waste” – if you have to make a cut where the waste side is your keeper, you need to offset the track from the line by the kerf (width) of the blade – otherwise your pieces end up too short by a couple of mm. There are some vids on YT about “track saw waste side cuts” etc
Purchase in NZ from Placemakers:
https://shop.placemakers.co.nz/fbb2cstorefront/placemakersB2C/en/NZD/Tools/Power-Tool-Accessories/Power-Tool-Parts-%26-Accessories/Circ-Saw-Accessories-Spare-Parts/Guide-Rail-Adapter/p/5070157
LINKS
▶ Direct link to the saw: https://amzn.to/2XGT9i5
▶ Direct link to the track/rail: https://amzn.to/2H33QGz
▶ Direct link to the adapter: http://amzn.to/2px5qFo
Other guide rail adapters:
▶ Xsh04 and Xsh05 – https://amzn.to/2tTDdve
▶ Makita 5″ masonry saw – https://amzn.to/2EQYj3s
ITEMS I OFTEN USE
▶ Makita 18V Sub-Compact Brushless 2-Pc. Kit: https://amzn.to/2ZeWGn7
▶ Trend DWS/KIT/H Essential Diamond Sharpening Kit: https://amzn.to/31Ofbkd
▶ Makita 18V Brushless Cordless 6-1/2″ Circular Saw: https://amzn.to/2ZauQbY
▶ Makita 55-Inch Guide Rail: https://amzn.to/2HbZ0oY
▶ Makita 18V Brushless Cordless Compact Router: https://amzn.to/2KDQX6v
▶ Makita 18V LXT Cordless 5″” Random Orbit Sander: https://amzn.to/2YZMSCe
GROZ 3-Piece Machinist Steel Square Set – https://amzn.to/2ZaLQif
You get a fully functional, accurate and easy to use track saw solution for half the price of a plunge saw without losing the general utility of the circular saw. Win-Win.
The adapter is model “Makita 196953-0 Guide Rail Adapter” (in the US at least that is what it is – http://amzn.to/2px5qFo) cheers.
Hey Rob, Nice video there. Im a hobbyist woodworker looking to get straighter cuts. Been using a straight edge jig but wanting more accuracy now.
I noticed you glued the bits first then drilled holes for your dowels – I guess this is acceptable? I have a shelf bracket I want to build and was thinking about doing this to it.
Also – do you get paid for affiliate links? I would want to purchase from you so you can get rewarded for your work.
thank you
Hi Rob, loved your vid prez. I’m late to the party on this but have a question please. I have a DHS680 and have just got the guide rail adapter. What way up do you fit the 2 rails? They’ve got P & D marks. Also is it different for LHS & RHS fit? Keep up the vids mate! They’re brilliant for late starters, like me. Cheers, Paul
Just tried to purchase this on Amazon, buggers won’t ship this to Australia 😥
In Australia you buy the Makita corded Track Saw with one guide rail (1400mm), for $749. Your cordless saw to buy here is $480 with a battery, guide rail is $99, adaptor is $75, total $654, spend an extra $90 for the real deal, appreciate it’s corded though, I like your channel…
What does the teal slide button do on the black plastic guide rail
Can you cut your Deck with it?
I notice you are right-handed… Would you not be better using the Makita DHS660 or equivalent, ie, a saw specifically for right-handers? Using the DHS680 as a right-hander means that with your right hand on the main handle, you have to cross the blade with your left arm to grip the auxiliary handle, not ideal from a safety perspective, and your body position won’t be ideal for good line of sight… But I do acknowledge that some people have a preference for having things the other way around for various, use-specific reasons…
Is there an adaptor for the corded 5007mg model to use on a track???
I have an unused secondhand track and a bosch professional circ that I’ll have to fab some guides to if it’ll work !? Thanks for video 😊
Awesome video mate, you just save me a stack 😉 thanks 😀
Hi There,
I’ve got a Makita 165mm corded saw and I’m thinking this adapter and a rail would be just what I need speed things up. Is there any chance you could give me the measurement of the bars that connect the adapter to the saw? When I say measurement, I mean from the outside of one bar to the outside of the other.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers from the Waikato
Excellent work
How long is the set up time
Hi there I just got one of these today, may I ask you a couple of things? how did you cut the black trip off at the beginning of the track since the whole saw is not on the track and hence it wobbles which means an uneven cut. Also did you find when you line up to zero at both ends its not quite level – one side seems perhaps 1/3 mm out? or do you thing that makes no difference? thanks in advance
I genuinely didn’t know this existed, I’d been thinking about getting the kreg version with a sled thing, but this is the bizzo!
Nice ! . I just figured this stuff out myself yesterday and ordered the 2-55" Powetec Tracks with joining bars for 129.99 and the Makita track guide for 39.99 I already had the XSH 03 saw. I am cutting some 30" x 60" parts from sheets and it would be great. I plan on making a square for it, out of some 12mm Baltic birch plywood as I cant find any less than $150.00 here in the USA.
If supported properly(a thin blade can make side deflection worse???) Is this accurate? Can you adjust it to different kerf blades?? Thanks
Just the video I was looking for, having recently got one of those Makita DHS680s! But can I ask what depth of cut you lose when using the track? I just need to make sure I’ll still have enough depth to, say, trim a door.
Wow this video has nearly had as many views as my top video.
Hey mate. Love the videos. Do you have a specific blade on their to cut plywood?
Just order done
Machida sells five-inch round tops and no guide rails in Korea. I don’t know why they don’t sell it.
Very useful video. Thanks. 🍻. I use Makita tools for everything mostly because once you’re on a battery platform it’s too expensive to change. The DHS680 is a brilliant little saw for almost every situation but the bloody dust chute is a complete dog spewing the dust straight into your guts or into your face if you’re lucky and a breeze gets up. The 660 (blade on right) has a better dust exhaust but I’m not sure if there’s an adaptor for that.
I have been looking at DIY track saw ideas on YouTube for a while now. And given I have started looking to get a cordless Makita circ saw, I reckon you have made my mind up. With the 2 guide rail slots I think I can still make a good diy job myself
One question though. Does the saw have an electronic brake? It sounded like it when you finished the 45deg cut but it isn’t written on the saw like the other models by the looks
Double personality?
Note: I upgraded to 48T Oshlun blade before I made a cut https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxvWxw4589nheZ_QlYwqaZpnQExQfvjV4_ This said, when combined with the Powertec 71153 track, the cut was glass-smooth and as straight as an arrow with no tear out! I was dubious about the kick-back preventer as it is a very simple, plastic device; but, it worked perfectly and is very easy to disengage when necessary. Simple and functional is often the best way of doing anything! Festool can keep its over-priced TS-55 and TS-75! Who needs such a pricey tool when an inexpensive, simple one does the job?! Very pleased! DFYNT Dtrain – YouTube https://www.youtube.com
I just bought a track saw when I could have done this!!!
Just got this setup myself, since no one makes a right handed track saw (left blade).
It’s not perfect with the XSH03Z. But a few things I did to tweak it is to do this…
1) Saw Play: I unscrewed the fine adjustment knobs to get to the green spreading rings. I then put a thin strip of UHMW Tape on the side of the green ring that will make contact with track. It gives it a bit more depth to make better contact with track and make it not rock side to side as much.
2) Location of Metal arms that connect to the saw: This has been tough. Getting the saw blade to run true means it needs to be perfectly parallel to the track. Where the metal arms go into the track adapter is an issue. If you put it to "0" (Zero) it will turn the actual aluminum edge of your track into a splinter guard. So what I did was take a 2×4 on my sliding miter saw and cut a ¾" to 1" deep cut lengthwise. (You can do it width wise if you have a regular miter saw, but do 2 boards ate same depth.)
Now, take your XSH03z, adapter, and track on top of the board(s) So your saw bkade can go onto the groove. It will rest straight and you can then mark out 90° and set the metal rods in the adapter, where they are at a true Zero. Then mark off the rods by overtightening the screw. Then take the metal rods out of everything, and you will see a little circle where the screw scratched the flat rod. Drill a hole there big enough for the threaded knob to fit through, and you now know where a true Zero is and the hold down knobs in adapter will actually pass through the flat bar, securing your Zero, perfectly every time.
…..
It’s a shame Makita (or any other good tool manufacturer) does not make a Blade Left track saw.
I was a lefty until I lost use of left arm, to a virus. And track saws were heavenly as a lefty, since they were right blade. Righties have no idea what they’re missing out on.
I’m now a righty, and I can’t use a right blade track saw. This adapter and the XSH03Z is the closest, and only real option to do long straight rip cuts for me.
So until a true right handed (left blade) track saw exists, I’ll be using this.
(I’m currently trying to figure out a way to give it a spring plunge mechanism, and a side plate to make dust hose port more effective… but it’s quite a pain.
I was just looking at that exact saw, and wanted to know if it would work with any track, even better given it’s Makita, and not a compatible option 🙂
Hi video, can I ask you somethings? at 3.11 when you did the mitre cut – what tool make etc did you use to get your 45 degrees so perfect? What saw did you have to cut the dowels flush (4.32) and lastly I love your drill press 🙂 you selling it any time soon , looks old but built to last . thanks in advance
Thank you
Is the attachement metal or plastic ? As its coming in around £50 in the uk
Off balance and looks like it could be a kickback death trap.
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Hey all, if you watch this vid and it helps you out it would be great if you’d share the love with a like, share or even a subscribe. All these things help the algorithm spread the word to other folks. I have a ton of other content to see as well. All welcome – come one – come all. Cheers 👍
Good video mate, but i am really struggling with the offset position of your screws on the plywood behind you. Can you sort it out and post a video so i can sleep easy at night.
Thanks for including the links to the exact products. Saves time. I had purchased the Makita 199232-5 guide rail adaptor and found it WORTHLESS on my little XSH03 circ saw. IMPOSSIBLE to tighten down enough to keep the saw bottom tail from moving more than 6mm! I thought surely this can’t be the best Makita can do. Clicked on your vid and realized there was another guide rail adaptor with two attachment bars.
A masterpiece!!!
Does this work with a 5007mg?
Doesn’t work for 5008mg model
Thanks for vid Rob Tee A1 good work Urock would you know what type of guide rail adaptor is compatible with the Makita 5900B 2000w saw I have a Makita track but can’t find any guide rail adaptor it doesn’t have to be a makita adaptor as long as it’s compatible with the Makita track and Makita saw 5900B 2000w
I wish someone would make a nice aluminum version. The plastic ones from Makita are known to arrive curved out of shape.
Only Makita 👍
Very Helpful. !!! thanks ….
Hey Rob, Really late to this one, but wanted to ask a question if you’re still around 🙂
You mention in the description to try and never change the setup of the adapter bars as you’ll never get them perfect again, but am I right in understanding that they would need to be adjusted if you were doing beveled cuts?
Your voice went in to female mode at one stage : )
Just called Makita Australia and they said this adaptor (196953-0) can be ordered through any of the authorized service centers (at least in Australia). For the reference, similar adaptor for DHS660 (the newer model) is 199232-5, however interestingly enough it only contains a single slat. Looking closer at other Makita saws, DHS680 featured here seems to be the only one that has two slots for inserting guiding slats (the rest have just one at the front) which probably makes it a more accurate glider (if it wasn’t for flimsy fence that it).
Welp. This will definitely NOT be replacing my plunge saw. Looks like a really nice saw though. Pretty bad track saw design though.
Hi Rob, I just got the Makita dhs 680, tracking rail and the adaptor based on your review and tbh I’m a bit disappointed after using it… The adaptor wobbles to sides about 1mm and stops the saw from cutting straight. It actually screwed up the rubber too… Is there a step I might be missing? I’d really appreciate it if you have any suggestions or tips!
Nice. Is that an official Makita part?