My Simple Jig for Dead Straight Cuts – Woodworking Tips
My Simple Jig for Dead Straight Cuts – Woodworking Tips
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Thank you very much and I have excelled in the explanation, and the method of your explanation is simple. I repeat my thanks to you
Thank you so much ! The first person to really make it simple simple !
Thanks
Very interesting and useful tip.
Tips are always very nice to see
BRILLIANT 👏 Thank you I won’t be needing featherboards
great tip and video. thanks for sharing. work safe.
Hello Sir. Would you please what is the purpose of that straight long wood since the fence is straight too. Please explain. Thanks
Great idea. Thanks
Awesome tip! 👍🏻
What about the jig, jug
0:49 " I like to keep things simple in life…..has a homemade table saw and home made fence. Do you know how difficult that is?
for me is how do I get a straight piece in the first place?
it’s driving me crazy.
I was wondering why I keep getting a strange looking edge with a slight indentation from the blade.
I discovered this trick by accident. I found that my fence had developed a very slight bow, so I used a 2.5m steel shelf support next to the fence. It worked brilliantly, and the U shape means you can clamp it to the fence.
OMG this is so helpful
What about T slot aluminum 80/20 some did it with it .please let me know
I am really curious, how is using the piece of wood is any better than using the fence?
Tried this out this morning. Such a big help. Thank you, John.
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Can you show how to square a uneven sheet of plywood that is all 4 sides
C
So far this is the simplest method I found, thank you
I also saw on 731 Woodworks where he used a 4′ level, which moves with the piece being jointed. Gonna have to try both ways now! 😉
John. Silly question. Why do we need the jig. If our fence is straight, can’t we just push the board against it?
That angle from behind the fence was super useful for illustrating this. Hadnt seen that before.
I LOVE THIS! Thank you so much for this! I used this technique in building a frame for an 8ft x3ft work table. I needed it to be flat. Building airplane parts on top of it. The 2×6 rom HD left alot to be desired in "straightness". This fixed them right up.
Been looking at various videos for a solution to this issue. Yours is the best (and simplest) solution yet!
Hi, very new to woodworking/building. I need to square up some 2×4’s. Can I ask… why can’t you just use the fence?
This one the best technique i ever seen to straight the edge
John, I have watched enough of your videos to probably already know the answer to this question but just in case…..The red indicator on your table saw fence (used to set the fence distance), did you make that or did you purchase it. On the off chance that you bought it, where id you buy it? If you made it, do you happen to have a video showing how you made it? Thank.
Very good! I’ve been clamping a 6 foot level to my fence for wider stock. (narrow stock gets clamped to a board.)
Gonna make one of these thanks
What’s the difference between the auxiliary fence in your table saw fence?
I really appreciate your ideas and projects, especially the jigs and tool ideas. I am into woodworking but I don’t have a shop, I have to take my tools from the storage room and pull them out to the carport. I am working on cleaning out that room and getting tools fixed and on mobile carts etc. so that I have some semblance of a shop which can actually be usable. It is a long process and I am sure I will be using some of your ideas. Thank you for sharing them.
I use an 8ft level with some clamps. Same concept, but it’s what I have that I know is straight on the job sites
I Know you don’t use track saws, but I thought you could somehow hook a 3 m festool rail to the fence to give you a perfect straight edge
Just curious what is the difference if you run the board against the actual fence as opposed to against the jig?
Brilliant, thanks.
Thank you sir!
Very simple & to the point!
Awesome Video and jig. It is so much simpler than many others on YouTube that use expensive clamps
Very nice.
U are the first person to describe what side to place initially against the auxiliary! I wasn’t getting it in my mind as to how the straight cut would be made. Thank u for actually explaining!!!👍
Such a simple yet awesome idea. I almost feel bad that I didn’t think of this myself. Keep doing what you’re doing good sir🍻
Excellent idea, John. Glad I’ve found your site again.
FANTASTIC IDEA. I usually just put the cup part against the fence and straighten but I can see how mush truer this can make a longer board or if it’s really bad then screw a straight board to edge. But this is so stupid simple. Thanks. .
Pure and simple genius. Love that you can get full thickness cutting capacity from your table saw using this method. Thanks for sharing.
This technique is a must if you’re going to use your table saw like a jointer. Especially for longer, thicker, heftier boards. Short boards, you might get away with the adjustable, two-clamp, sliding jig sled.
I once used a long, thick piece of MDF for this purpose. A big improvement, but I used clamps to keep mine against the fence. It was a huge pain. Clamps in the way. I wish I added a simple bracket like you made. Great idea!
Hope that long, thin piece of pine wood stays straight. It’s definitely lightweight, but I’d be checking it for true all the time. 🙂
Also, I agree, repeated cuts to each side help clean up imperfections caused by blade deflection, blade not perfectly sharp, knots pushing the board around during a pass, and user error (BUT be sure to start cutting wider than your desired width). It’s the same technique used to verify that your fence is exactly 90deg to your blade. Which should be your FIRST step, actually. Otherwise, these neat tricks will be irrelevant.
Huh! Simple! nice!
This is genius. I have been pushing two pieces through at the same time. One piece is dead balls flat and the other is the piece I am trying to straighten. This is WAY safer! Thanks!
John, Your knowledge is gold.