I used an old worn out, rusty saw blade to make the sanding disk. Cutting off the teeth is the first step and I did that with an angle grinder equipped with a thin cutting blade. A hacksaw would get it done, but take longer and require just a bit more effort.
The sandpaper is a standard 9 x 11 sheet and is glued onto the 9″ diameter disk with spray adhesive. I did this before (on that blade in the opening scene) and the spray adhesive does a great job of firmly holding the sandpaper on.
I only put sandpaper on one side, but you can do both and have a fresh surface ready to go when the first wears out. Or you can put a finer grit (or coarser) on the other side.
This produces very good results with 100 grit paper. It does still have swirls marks but they are very tiny and light hand sanding would quickly clean that up.
Where this really shines is with plywood, as you can see in the before / after photos in the video. My table saw with a sharp blade produces a very good cut, but that can be dramatically improved with this.
It also does a great job of jointing a straight edge on a board. It takes a few passes but it will get it done and it’ll a silky smooth finish as well.
This setup lets you quickly edge sand stock of any width and up to as thick as the disk is sticking up, and is as fast a changing the blade on your saw.
In the video I cut high into the quick release auxiliary fence to make it look more dramatic, but I would recommend only going a bit higher than the stock you normally work with. This will give more support on either side of the blade for sanding shorter pieces. You can also wheel the disk all the way up without the fence and use it as a normal disk sander to shape parts.
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