Stanley Bailey Bench Planes – An Anatomy
Stanley Bailey Bench Planes – An Anatomy
Anatomy of Bailey Pattern Bench Planes
Components of a Stanley Bailey Bench Plane, disassembled, explained, and reassembled, ready to make shavings.
Let my demystify the anatomy of these popular hand planes.
Video contains images of my Stanley Bailey No.4 and No.5 bench planes, but is applicable to many other manufacturer’s ‘copies’.
FindMyTool:
http://www.findmytool.co.uk/encyclopedia/how-to-use-a-jack-plane.php
http://www.findmytool.co.uk/encyclopedia/how-to-use-a-smoothing-plane.php
Check out my other YouTube channel ‘Get Into Woodworking’:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdigaVasCLNO88RNEI53H4A/featured
Check out my website for further woodworking information: http://www.WOmadeOD.co.uk
Follow me on social media under ‘womadeod’ & ‘cre8’
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/mitch_peacock_womadeod
Twitter:
Tweets by womadeod
Google+:
http://google.com/+MitchPeacockWOmadeOD
Facebook pages:
https://www.facebook.com/WOmadeOD
https://www.facebook.com/mitchcre8s
Instructables:
http://www.instructables.com/member/WOmadeOD?show=INSTRUCTABLES
Support me on Patreon:
https://www.patreon.com/WOmadeOD
Etsy shop ‘Tree2Gift’
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/Tree2Gift
Very good explanation. I’ve recently decided to learn how to use planes and purchased a couple. Your info will certainly be helpful, thanks!
A very instructive and professional video. Thanks!
Is the currently available 12-005 (or 12-905) fine or is it a cut-corner ripoff piggybacking on the reputation of the vintage predecessor?
For the love of GOD! Tune that fucking guitar!
Very Helpful
great tips thanks for sharing Mitch
I have a Bailey number 5 with a record lever cap and blade. I’m guessing this is not right and someone just mismatched parts together?
can you please write the manufacturer of the blade and chip breaker?
Very thorough. Thank you.
Excellent explanatory video, thanks
Thank you, I learned a couple of things I did not know.
Woah, you took the knob off by unscrewing the screw, but when you took the gnob off the screw was still screwed into the base! Not only that, but the head of the screw was still in the gnob when you set the gnob down. Usually, when you take a screw out of something the whole screw comes out; period. Please explain.
Great video, I’m glad I found your channel. I’m in the process of trying to find replacement parts for a Stanley bailey no 6 I’ve just inherited and want to put back in action. The sole and frog are present and I think I’ve concluded that for the most part the iron, chip breaker and lever plate are generic across the range?
Atb Ryan
Just to be clear, I have replaced the original Stanley blade and chip breaker, with a pair from Hock. No modification was needed to fit them.
Clear and usefull! Thnx.
ehm… do you perhaps also have a Stanley RB10 plane? I could use some explaining on that one too 🙂
Thanks for this information. I am refurbishing an old stanley bailey and this will help me immensely, Walt
Hi Mitch,
You set your blade and breaker bevel down – I thought the old Stanley’s were bevel up and breaker set just behind the end of the bevel? Or am I backwards?
Just inherited my father’s 60 yr old plane, chisels etc, and decided to learn real woodworking (better than buying an electric pseudo-plane!).
Thanks, Russell
Nicely done Mitch. However, I am a bit confused. Now I am going into a RANT here .. sorry .. but … Your Stanley Plane has hard wood handles and it is made in England. After watching this I went out and bought one on Amazon.ca. Not only was I disappointed that it did not have the hard wood handles but It took me 4 DAYS of 9 hrs each day to get the bottom of the plane to even come close to true. ( I did it by hand with sand paper starting at 100 then 150 then 220) I will not tell you how uneven the frog was. however this only took 4 Hrs to hone to get true. During this time my father-in-law passed. I was gifted 2 Stanley Planes and one Record. O MY ..goodness. WHAT A DIFFERENCE … One Stanley a number 4 Made in the USA and was made some time BEFORE WWII with a hard wood handle .. self leveling blade which I have not seen any were and the number 5 was made ?? 1944 – 50 with a black wooden handle Made in CANADA. It states this right on the plane. These new Stanley planes are not even close to these. The New Stanley planes are made in MEXICO and (my guess) are to ashamed to put this on the plane. The Blade has made in England .. thus you think the whole plane is made in England because no were on the plane does it state were it is made. The difference is really noticeable. The metal on the New Made in MEXICO planes is bubbled on the top which catch the shavings and tiny partials .. the quality is just non par. It is true .. you get what you pay for .. I paid $60 on sale from $120 compared to others at $250 – $300 .. I was wondering why such a price … well now I know …. make sure your viewers know this Mitch because I was expecting a well made plane … STANLEY has lost me for a client. I will save up and pay for a well made plane the next time I am plane shopping.
Mitch I dare you to buy a new Stanley and do a review. I also am at the thought .. that companies are more responsible to their greedy share holders than the end client. The trend in the last ten years has been devastating on the western economy’s .. the jobs have all gone to Mexico China India .. just because it is a Stanley does not make it good quality any longer not even close.
Just the job Mitch, thanks. one of the problems I’m having with old No.4s is that all the blades have cutting edges that are curved on the flat side through mis-sharpening. Grinding that out makes the blade too short. Now…..is Hock hardware available in the UK?
Replacement parts available @ http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/planes.html. Be careful with handle bolts as they are ODD threads and not available in the bolt bin.
Thanks for the video. It was extremely helpful and easy to understand!
Thank you Mitch, your video was very helpful. I’ve just restored No. 4 and No.5 Stanley planes, and wanted to learn more about fine adjustments. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for this
Super helpful, exactly what I needed to get started with my new-to-me (made in England) No 4, thank you!
Thanks! A well-done instructional!
Excellent educational video. Best one I have seen! Well done!
Great lesson Mitch, thanks for sharing it.
Nice video. I have a number 6 baley, but came very rusty and miss care. I’m restoring it by now. I don’t have the screw to move the frog, and the blade, chip breaker and the love to secure this parts, it’s the piece that says Stanley in red. ¿Can you veo me to find my pieces? I live in Mexico. Thanks
I’ve watched the video start to finish now. Well done.
Two notes though. I don’t think the length is the only difference between the No 4 and No 5. As far as I know the No 4 has a higher angle of the blade more suitable for smoothing. Also, even though I am no expert on handplanes, the chip breaker’s (cap iron) main role is not to provide rigidity to the blade. As it is close to impossible with two pieces of metal wit one free end, to say the least.See: Influence of the cap-iron on hand plane https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56DpxEOpxz0
I’ve just bought a Footprint 5B No 5 handplane. And I almost damaged it by trying to use the advancement knob with the blade cap set too tight (the screw at the front). The advancement tongue slipped out and even chipped out a little as the material of the slot is a very hard steel with sharp edges and the tongue is cast iron on something not much better. Stupid of me. I wish I watched your video before I attempted at playing with it.
Thank you! That is the clearest instruction I have seen. I finally understand the function of that adjusting screw, and how to set the chip breaker.