STOP Making Out-Dated Table Saw Sleds, Do This Instead
STOP Making Out-Dated Table Saw Sleds, Do This Instead
New woodworking tools come in many different ways, sometimes people invent wonderful new ideas for tools, other times an old design can take on a whole new look by some simple re-building like a my newly modified Crosscut Jig for the Table Saw; years ago I made (or over made) a Table Saw Sled that would last a dozen lifetimes, but it was huge and cumbersome, so a couple of years ago I made a simple cross cut jig on the same principals, but it as a quarter the size and weight and worked faster and more versatile, so much so the prototype I made kept getting used more and more until I was finally convinced to make a Permanent Jig, with Baltic Birch Plywood, Laminated Fence and I even got to use the old metal Mitre Bar from and long since dis-used Mitre Gauge that came with my saw. Now I have the ultimate cross cut jig, it fast, light, easy to use and SUPER accurate for make very wide cross cuts which comes in handy for furniture and cabinet making.
For More Detail on the build, including Tools and Parts like Plastic Mitre Gauge Blanks, check out the article on woodworkweb.com, the link is below.
… Read More Here – https://bit.ly/42oS0w0
Is that a Rigid table saw?
It is better to be hated for what you are than to be loved for something you are not.
your audio volume is very low – the advertizing break kind of "shouts" to me….
Why would you measure square against the miter slot and then immediately verify by measuring cuts with the blade? Your end goal then is to be square to the current blade alignment anyway.
What about "out-dated" sleds that aren’t ridiculously overbuilt and work fine?
This is cool
Interesting video.
I have like 3 different plywood small/light table saw sleds in addition to a more robust sled, and 3 for router table use.
I’ve had people on job sites and glitzy-magazine hobbyists tell me how I wasted my time constructing them cuz rockler has this, and garret wade has that, and they are “so accurate.”
Maybe they are accurate but I’m capable of repeatable accuracy on my own. The next progression in my mind is that for a few hours of my time and essentially what is scrap-bin materials versus thousands of dollars of extruded aluminum- I’ll build my own stuff, thank you. I never have to check to see if my jigs are adjusted correctly and they fit my hands comfortably.
I wouldn’t be buying anything of those shiny magazine cutting aids if I was Warren Buffett, either. Tools that do exactly what needs call for quickly and accurately are more important to me than adjustability, shiny parts, or bright colors.
That’s what it comes down to for me. Does it save me time or enable me do better work? If so, maybe I’ll buy in. If it’s just another mousetrap? Then, no- not interested.
Good video
Same ol’ same ol’ , "yawn"…g’bye
Fantastic, thanks 😊
I use Ipe for runners. Super hard and durable and doesn’t shrink or swell.
What about tear out since there’s a gap to the saw top?
I love my big giant always in the way sled. Lol. Im all ears.
i made one thirty years ago and have worn it out three or four times. i got the idea from Roy Underhill’s shooting board.
When using plastic runners wouldn’t it be a bit of foresight to cut a shallow dado for it so that it sits firmly in its place once screwed down. And then, when it need replacing it would be that much easier and more precise.
Your build is truly quick and easy but there needs to be a way to dial it to be more precisely square. 0,7mm/m or 0,025"/4ft is on the scale of being visibly out of square on the cut detail and it is almost guaranteed to drive you crazy when tackling some more precise furniture projects.
that’s a smart jig, Colin! Thanks for sharing.
Looks like the one Norm Abram ahead on the new Yankee workshop several decades ago
Thanks. This will transform my table saw.
Stating laminated wood does not warp is false. Plywood has multiple lamentations and it warps.
I have some plastic guides I keep around for jigs, but have a lot of aluminum ones too. I go to the metal salvage place and buy 3/8" thick flat aluminum stock, then cut it on the table saw.
To smooth the cuts, I use canning wax by rubbing it over the cut line. You can actually hear a difference in the cut when using it. Too, you can see the wax melt just ahead of the kerf.
In the past, I’ve used one of my 60 tooth, ten inch carbide blades, but bought a dedicated blade for nonferrous metal (I like the cut quality of the 60 tooth wood blades a bit better).
I cut with the blade guard down (mine swivels out of the way), but still wear a full face shield because hot metal can get tossed.
Because I make my own guide bars for far less than they would cost from a commercial supplier, I have no qualms about keeping several bars around and making them long so I can use whatever length suits my fancy. For example, a few of my jigs have the bar extending several inches out the back, which would be perfect for this sled, to add stability at the start of cuts.
Local plastic store… come on chuck
It kick back the rest not standing on the sled.
You are lucky, standing behind your jig as a cover.
I prefer the big one, it’s much more secure and have no risks.
why dont you line up to the blade?
I love this. I have the budget level Stanley table saw. It’s nice enough, but the fence isn’t totally accurate and the mitre gauge is pathetic. I hadn’t considered such a simple design, especially recycling the bar from the mitre gauge, brilliant! Definitely have to make this 😊
making complicated the simple…
I prefer both ends of the board to be supported using my ‘out-dated’ sled.
👍
Woah, just woah!
Sure this may be a handy sled, but to say it replaces a larger more elaborate rig "for everything" is balderdash.
Maybe it’s fine for the work you do, great, but not me and thousands like me.
For instance it doesn’t support the cut piece.
How about the zero clearance qualities of a full sled… you don’t seem to do stuff where that matters either.
You obviously don’t cut box joints very often, that’s blatantly clear.
I can think of several instances where you’re recommendations could actually be dangerous.
For instance, your cut piece is lose on the table saw. It doesn’t return where it can safely be retrieved and less potential for pieces to be launched by a blade!
Useful addition to many shops? Quite plausible.
Replace a larger sled for YOUR purposes? Apparently true.
Replace a larger sled for the work I sometimes do and many, many OTHERS do daily?
I will be polite and just recommend you don’t wager anything important on that. You have already lost the argument. Sorry.
If your title was "Why I’m ditching the big sled", I would not have wasted time with this comment.
I’d have no issue with the premise, title and video (not that the world actually gives a rats about my opinion).
Ultimately, I would ONLY advise an experienced woodworker to use this sled where appropriate. Full stop!
Finally, who says more elaborate sleds need to be the size of the saw and weigh 26 lbs?
Furthermore, large mating surfaces mean more friction. There are solutions to/for that. Honest!
Counter sinks pretty much center themselves.
You fail to say what Type of plastic. You can’t use most plastics. They will wear out quickly. There is one type of plastic that you should use. It doesn’t wear and slides very nicely. Indestry uses it for wear surfaces and to counter friction. It is a little spendy but worth it. It is UHMW. It very durable. I was a machinery machanic at a winery for many years. We used it a lot. I have even tapped it so I could screw bolts into it. It holds threads great. You well not have to replace it periodically. I have even made a fluting device for my lathe out of it.
I like that your new sled is light weight and much easier to manage than those big sleds.
I would’ve cut the old one in two, removing the front fences and done…🤭.
Upgrade rather than another built imho.
AB
🔧🪚📐 While your base design is impressive, I’d suggest considering a small angled cut at the meeting point of the fence and table board. This can prevent any potential dust buildup that might affect the fit against the back fence. It’s a minor adjustment that could enhance the overall functionality of the sled. Keep up the innovative woodworking ideas! 💪🌲🔨
Thats great you salvaged the mitre gauge. I am going to use your design.
Thank You Colin. As a noob in woodworking, can this be used with the riving knife and/or the blade guard attached? I noticed you don’t have a guard on. Thank you
interesting
You have a local plastic store? 😂😂😂
Whenever anyone says "At the end of the video, blah blah blah", I quite and go somewhere else. I get manipulated enough already.
Local plastic store??
I made a small parts sled years ago because I was tired of hauling out my table saw sled. I used the miter slot to square up the fence. Thanks for this video.
Nobody would build a big rig like that
Years ago I used the sled but it has many drawbacks. Now I´m enjoing my format saw. There are no good alternatives for that.
Good info.
Just a quick note, something I hear often that I think is incorrect. Cutting fluid is not for lubrication. It is for cooling; which you also mentioned.
Nice sled. I made one like your old one decades ago; for a smaller portable Makita saw. Dad uses it now. I will definitely be building a simpler lighter one. Thank you.
Okay but… Even one better, not to pop your bubble or anything but… You mentioned going to your local plastics store and getting those runners you like so much. Well , next time when you go to the plastics store ( and you can order these things from online too) get some sheet Plastic they have " Cutting Board Plastic" which is great, abrasion resistant plastic, that is smooth on one side, and they have it where it can be slightly textured on the other, if you want that for the top. It comes in different thicknesses, so get what you like, and they will even cut it for you ! Get your same runners, and enough of the sheet " cutting board " plastic to make your base and back push wall. It all goes together with the same countersunk screws and you can use some CA glue also. Line everything up like you show, and WHAM you’ll have the smoothest sliding, easiest cleaning sled you’d ever dream of. You never have to worry about the wood warping, or getting loose at the back board.
You are suppose to show us how to adjust it if its out of square! " yep mine came out square on the first try you guys are on your own"
There is one fallacy in your testing of the squareness of the cut. And that is, how do you know that the metal carpenter’s square is actually 100% square? What method did you use to determine its squareness?
I am slow, so I have to ask: the method of squaring you show only measures any error that may be present, and does not actually create squareness, Yes? If your final measurement is off, you have to go back and re-screw the laminated rail piece. Right? Also, Did you purposely make the left edge of the sled (from the operators’ perspective) hang over the edge of the table so you can put a clamp there? Thanks for all your great videos.
Why no riving knife or blade guard?
Brilliant Dave in the UK
What kind of watch are you wearing?
I wish he would’ve shown how he uses the angle cutting part. I have a table from my dad and it didn’t come with a miter gage so I have to make one. Anyone know of a good video I can watch? Haven’t found one on YouTube for some reason. Maybe the algorithm is making it not show up for me.