Table Saw ( SawStop ) Power Upgrade – 110v / 220v
Table Saw ( SawStop ) Power Upgrade – 110v / 220v
When I purchased my SawStop I was on an extreme budget but I did invest in the accessory contactor box assemble so that in the future when I got to a shop that had 220v power I could upgrade. The process is simple even without instructions as the wiring diagram is on the machine. Come along as I discuss how and why I upgraded the 1.75hp motor to 220v power.
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Tools & Material Used:
Upgrade part: https://www.sawstopstore.com/product/230v-pcs175-contactor-box-assembly-including-cables-to-change-from-110v-to-230v-power/
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Great Info!!! Thank You!!! 👍😎
Don’t forget to label it as 220 now. Also the 220 seems to have a lot less screaming
Thanks for sharing all of your videos
So I just want to say thank you for this video. I forgot I ordered the upgrade to 220 a month or 2 back. This got me off my chair and went out into the cold garage and just did the upgrade.
thanks for all your videos and help. i recomend making some framed sound absorbers for your shop. it will improve video audio and help deaden the echos from your tools
I want a Felder PCS® "Preventive Contact System" table saw
"That sawdust is not good…..PFPFSSFFHTPFPTTTPFPPPTTT!! There, that’s better!" 😄
The sound test is not the best because camera have a compressor built in that kick when sound is peaking. Which will make every sound something like 85-95db. Still IRL my 240v is always a little bit quieter or as you said more bassy sound.
Super simple upgrade, nice. I was surprised at how much sawdust was in that electrical box. Makes me wonder if I should check mine. Thanks for the video.
Great video ! Looking forward to the next one . Thank for sharing .
Hi from Europe. Thank you for some explanation. This voltage business in US was a mistery to me. Over here we have single phase 230V or 3 phase 400V . Most industrial machines have 3 phase motors at 400V.
Thanks for sharing that!
wait, they’ll let you upgrade to 3hp? For some reason, I thought it required a larger housing.
I guess I hadn’t given it any thought before, but I suppose it makes sense that it’s an additional part/cost to upgrade a sawstop to 220v, given the processing it has to do… Thanks for sharing, I’ve been planning to swap my table saw to 220v, but it’s a vintage Walker Turner, so slightly different from this 🙂
nice video, thanks
I have a new lathe coming, so I have been binge watching YOUTUBE. I find you to be a Pearl. A hidden gem on YouTube. I will be joining soon. You early video’s are just as relevant today as as they were then. Wishing you well. The cream will always rise to the top.
Remember to change the 120v label on the wire cover. (13.41 min). Thanks for the walk-thru.
Not really done….you didn’t change that 120 Volt label!
This channel and King’s Fine Woodworking are my favorites.
The US adopted 110V as the AC voltage standard because it takes more amperage to deliver the same amount of power, which requires a larger gauge of wire. That means more copper. The nascent copper industry lobbied for the 110V standard in order to create a larger market for copper, and it worked. The rest of the world, except Japan, adopted a the higher voltage specifically to use less copper. The US got it wrong for the wrong reasons; the rest of the world got it right for the right reasons.
Amps kill, not voltage. Overall premise of this video is great with a lot of solid info. However, the safety comments weren’t wholly accurate.
Get the 3HP motor. It will give you noticeably smoother cuts. Just $0.02 FWIW
Most people always have a dust collector running when using their table saw, jointer, planer, etc. Normally a DC is going to use 12 to 15 amps on 120v, so put your dust collector on one leg and your tools on the other leg to balance the load on the electrical system. If your dust collector is already 240v, then yea, it makes sense to run your saw and other large tools on 240v so you are keeping the load balanced on each leg. I guess if youre using a shop vac for DC or have a 200 amp panel in the shop, it doesnt matter either way.
Never take advice from a unlicensed electrician. 110v can kill just as easily as 220v. Don’t be fooled.
I have noticed that people from 110 volt countries seem concerned about 220 volt installations. I think the problem is that they see the higher voltage as more dangerous when its really the higher current that kills. You can have several thousand volts and be shocked by that with a nasty jolt but no real harm. For example a cattle fence has 7,8,9 or more thousand volts in the wire and if you touch it…. ouch but no real harm done as you only have milliamps of current. As you rightly commented the higher voltage reduces the current being taken and lower current means lower temperature of the device and also your household wiring
Thanks for going over all the benefits of 220v and not just "you won’t flip the breaker" this was super helpful and helping me understand the benefits
The ramp-up did seem marginally quicker on 220V. Would have been nice to have a thick board cut comparison too, but you would now have to swap it back, so I guess that’s a no go.
Did you put the 220V lable on the electrical connection box? I wish you no harm, but just in case, the next person that may end up with that saw needs to know that the 220V connection is made inside that cover. The plug end should tell them, but better safe than sorry. "Live Long and Prosper"* my friend. And I’ll see you next time for the tune-up and truing/tuning of the cabinet/table saw video. That should be some great information. Thanks ahead of time for that one too.
* (Mr. Spock, Star Trek)
Aloha….great video…thank you for taking the time…can you tell me what the amp draw is with 220? Thank you in advance.
What model saw stop do you have in this video?
I hadn’t expected a Among Us reference X^D
Uh… Guys… Our shop teacher is playing Among Us now. I think that means it’s not cool anymore.
Honestly, at 43 years old, I didn’t expect that sort of thing to ever be a problem again.