The BEST table saw blade is CHEAP!
The BEST table saw blade is CHEAP!
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Freud blade: https://amzn.to/3jkfQCT.
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If you haven’t considered trying a circular saw blade on a table saw, I recommend trying it. A circular saw blade has a lot of advantages over traditional 10″ table saw blades. A 7-1/4″ circular saw blade can be used effectively on most table saws with the exception of a SawStop.
My go-to 10″ blades are the forest woodworker II https://amzn.to/3j7YiJU and the Freud Industrial laminate blade: https://amzn.to/34vaz7g
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To have a splitter or riving knife made that will support this blade contact the team at https://www.thesharkguard.com/
By adding this inexpensive new 7.25″ circular saw blade to my table saw I was able to:
– double the power of my saw
– improve cut quality
– decrease dust generation
– reduce sound output
– improve safety
The difference in cut quality is dramatic. The circular saw blade on a table saw produces cut quality that is like glass. It’s actually nicer than I get off of my jointer. Try a smaller circular saw blade on your table saw and let me know what you think!
Oh, I see your links now, my apologies!
I honestly can’t wait to try this.
Tried it on a bunch of 5/4 pine I had to rip into small strips. Worked beautifully on my little 8.25” DeWalt portable table saw. Thanks!
Thank you for your advice. Just put the blade on, and I love it!! Really smooth cuts, quiet and less sawdust.(and the price!!wow!!) Thanks
I HAVE ALWAYS WONDERED THIS. Thank you man this is amazing
I’m hoping to avoid the logistics and cost of getting a new riving knife made. Would the majority of these benefits be applicable with a 1/8 kerf?
Very con-vincing. thanks.
Nice, thanks. Just one other thing I think would have been beneficial to mention. If you do this on a Sawstop you lose the safety feature. No matter what we change in the workshop, invariably, there are going to be times when we don’t pick up on all the potential consequences.
I’m thinking that putting a 7 on my 10 table saw is going to put the knife too far from the blade to do any good.
How on earth did I miss this post for over a year plus? First of all, your analysis of the 7.25" blade on a full size saw is complete and well thought out. The logic is sound and like you stated, unless you are going to cut thick material, your downside using the small diameter blade is greatly outweighed by the benefits. Excellent video and subject matter … my eyes are now wide open to the possibilities. Thanks for sharing your findings … I for one feel fortunate because of your efforts. Cheers Mate!!
I also use a 7.25" on table saw for some things & have one on my 10" Hitachi slider. Just put a deck on it & your good to go. The higher rpm rate makes a cleaner crown cut imo
Simple but excellent.
I had been using blades by Irwin, Dewalt, Kobalt, etc. Then about 5 years ago I started hearing how great the Freud Diablo blades are so, I bought the 10" general purpose blade for my table saw. Boy, what a difference!! I love it so much I went and bought more blades for the miter saw and my two circular saws. I’m pretty frugal and went and spent the $40 for that ten-inch blade, but now hearing you say you are using the 7-1/4" on your ten-inch table saw is great! I’m going to order two more of the thin kerfs, one for ripping and one for cross-cutting. That will only be about $27 as opposed to $80-$100.00 for the 10" versions. Thank you for sharing this with us!
Now you tell me! I switched over a while ago. Another plus is that when you shut the power off there is less free wheeling of the blade and it stops sooner which = SAFETY!
To save the hassle of getting a smaller Irving knife,could I buy a larger kerf blade?
I’ve often thought about the same thing but never took the time to try it. Glad to see that you have, I’ll definitely give this a try on my unisaw. One thing to consider though is that the smaller blades don’t have the same variety of tooth shapes but maybe that won’t be as much of a factor as we think.
CLARIFICATION. My apologies; I misspoke on one point made in the video when I said that the smaller blade would deliver more torque. In reality, torque is a constant in this scenario, as it is a measurement of rotational power delivered from the center of the arbor. Torque = force multiplied by distance. So, with constant torque the smaller blade delivers greater cutting force because of the shorter distance. The power advantage that I was explaining is accurate, but I should have referred to greater cutting force rather than greater torque.
That’s the same reason I use an 8” sliding miter saw vs a 12” slider… a stiffer and truer blade. Better and straighter cuts!
All your points are valid. I’ve been using a 7-1/4 on my saw for a while and it’s way better.
Thank you very much!!! I got the blade and yes is fantastic how glue ready the cuts are!!
Thanks!
1) Are you from MN? I saw the M on the cutting board you had made.
2) Would you recommend using a 40 tooth or their 60 tooth if my project required ripping 3/4" oak veneer plywood?
I just bought my first table saw and had no idea I could use a 7 1/4 blade on a 10′ saw. I actually already have that 7 1/4 diablo on my miter and I think I paid 12 or 13$ on Amazon. I’m glad I came across this video definitely going to try the blade. Thanks for the info.
I’m curious, based on the video, when your cutting out small rips do you complete the rip at the end of the cut? And if so how do you support the small rip and keep from shooting back towards you?
Great tip! So are we talking Diablo brand blade but just 7 1/4 right? And how many teeth?
I tried this type of blade but I was not able to get it tight when installing. Any suggestions? I have an older jobsite Ryobi saw that uses an 8" blade (1/8" kerf). Add a washer to compensate for the smaller kerf?
I wonder how their 24T framing blades would work… Hands down the best blades ive found production framing. When they’re on sale 2 for 9.99 I buy all of them.
I do only ripping on my portable 8 1/4 table saw.. How do you think the 24T would do for that?
Kind of regret my recent ridge carbide purchase now, yikes!
WoW it work so well Thank’s
Great video, I am wonder why not use the blade stiffiner with the smaller. It may reduce the cut depth even more but if that isnt a problem you could remove any wobble that may occur even with the smaller blade. Also perhaps overkill.
I did this as you recommended, I can’t believe that I never thought of this 30 years ago. It works just as well as you said. I hardly ever work with anything but 3/4 material. Thanks!
7.25" blades do indeed deliver more torque! Save the 10" blades for the big jobs.
very interesting proposition. I am new to the table saw game and I could use more cutting power for my Delta hybrid saw. Thanks!
I was just about to replace my 10 inch on my shop saw and stumbled upon your video. Everything you explained makes perfect sense. I’m going to buy that Diablo blade and try it this week.Thanks for taking the time to make your videos!
Aren’t the arbors on those two saw different sizes? Did you have to bore out the blade to the bigger arbor size?
I’ve been using Vermont American (7.25" & 10") Laser X2 blades on my tablesaw & circular saws for over 20 years.
They have "V" shaped cutting tips so they are self scoring on both sides of the kerf.
These are full kerf blades btw. I also do use blade stabilizers on my tablesaw with the 10" blades.
I will give the thin kerf Diablo blade a try for comparison. I think the prices will be pretty much the same. Good data/video.
I like Diablos, catch 3 packs on sale.
Only issue is that the smaller blade might not have enough height to work with the bunch of custom jigs that every woodworker have. For non-jig usage though, this absolutely makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the info.
I assumed this was a product advertisement at first, but it’s actually a really well made informative video
Wish I had switched to a smaller blade on my table saw earlier. What a difference! It changed my table saw from heavy metal to smooth jazz, plus all other benefits. You can only enjoy it after making the switch. Couldn’t be more happier. Thanks.
Would it also be accurate to say that the blade height above the table, has to be higher than with a 10" blade? I would think that is true.
I was Googling for a new tablesaw blade when I came across your video and am very glad I did. I live in Thailand where everything is in lockdown just now because of covid and the choice is pretty dismal online for 10 or 12 inch blades. Now I shall go for a 7 inch choice which seem to be much more plentiful. Thanks for the great info.
Great video!
Some useful math for you: SFPM (Surface Feet Per Minute) x 3.82/ Diameter = RPM RPM x .262 x Diameter = SFPM As you can see, there’s a huge difference in surface speed between the 7.25" and 10" blade.
Ok, you need to try the best saw blades made on the planet, most people have never heard of them because they are made in Japan. Think Japanese knife= Japanese saw blade! The blades are Matsushita. Cuts like no other!
Its like a track saw now. Don’t motors in general have an expected range of load? Just wondering if shortchanging that expected range if it will shorten the life of the motor. But in any case, all the 10" blades sitting in my amazon cart now have me pondering your suggestion. Like I don’t have enough to think about.
can I run the saw without the splitter ?
If you own an 18v medium power circular saw (cordless) like a Ridgid, you definitely want to use a thin kerf blade (like Diablo blades). I bought a Ridgid circ saw and I thought the blade they sent was dull or defected. Almost every single cut I made I was binding either a little or a lot (especially on the last inch of the board). I thought the blade was defective so I bought a new blade. The 2nd time I bought a Dewalt framing blade and the results were even worse. I even used my speed square as a guide to keep the blade straight and it still binded. I could not figure out why it was binding so bad then I ran across an article about using thin kerf blades on cordless circular saws because they dont have quite enough power to efficiently cut using a standard kerf blade. I tried this "theory" out and it was like night and day. I bought a Diablo framing and Diablo fine finish (both are thin kerf by default) and later a Mamba (Amana Tool) thin kerf fine framing. All 3 of those thin kerf blades worked wonders. All 3 of those blades are really good but most of all they allowed me to be able to use my cordless circ saw. They make a HUGGEEE difference if you have a cordless circ saw.
The world loves the for this information. Good work my man!
I did this on my 8.5 inch Milwaukee contractors saw. Number one it is battery powered and I find the battery lasting somewhat longer, and two whwn I shut the saw off it stops immediately. It stopped quickley before, but almost instantly now. Thanks. Using 7.25 blade now.
Man what a great idea! How have i not known about this before now! I cant wait to try it on my Dewalt contractor saw. Thanks for the video
How thick did they make the riving knife?