The One Simple Table Saw Hack You've Probably Never Heard Of
The One Simple Table Saw Hack You've Probably Never Heard Of
This is one of my favorite hacks for crosscutting on the table saw without busting out the sled.
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I think that’s a great idea.
For a cut like that why not use a cross cut sled?
Updated video can be found here, discussing why I didn’t use magnets, for those interested. (https://youtu.be/SAdSthrUq30)
Perfect using a magnetic clamp!
Love this idea! Thank you
May I ask what miter gauge are you using? It appears to be an Incra. What model and how do you like it? Any issues?
Instead of tape, why not recess a magnet into your block?
Good stuff. I would say get a larger strong magnet (whatever the use for featherboards) and stick that in their to replace the tape.
Simple and yet very effective! Thank you. 👍
Instead of the tape you could try 4 rare earth magnets. I still prefer using something clamped to the fence especially if the wood I’m cutting has any mass.
Forstner holes in the underside corners and glue rare earth magnets. No tape and store it on any metal surface
way too many what doesnt work , the fence has never caught a piece and spun it back. its not if but when???? waste of time use the fence thats literally what its designed for
You are amazing. Easy, logical, low tech. Thanks again!
To the funny carpenter. get two stick tape from Golfworks. It’s strong and leaves no residue.
Totally stupid. That tape will start to move as you keep banking off your block……and your saw table should be waxed, so that makes the tape a non starter.
I’m surprised at the idea that measuring, or remembering the off set is somehow an issue. Wood work is all about measuring, and to set yr fence (or stop block) at a given accurate measurement from the blade is a basic skill. In spite of the idea you don’t need to measure because the table saw has a indiced rip fence (I’ve never used one that has), by the addition later of a microadjuster shows that measuring is required. I think this is a great alternative, but I don’t think it is better than the L block or other spacers, particularly not for the reasons given in the video. As for the comments about tear out, this is prevented by having a sacrificial piece of wood across your mitre gauge allows you to push the cut off past the blade (eliminates kickback) and prevents tearout.
what really mind blow me is that the way you use double sided tape 🤣 which is great btw
I mean I usually tear the length that I need and then peel the backing off. BUT THIS, applying the adhesive but WITHOUT tearing is really new to me, thanks man! 😊👍
I just cut over 200 small pieces using your method with double sided tape worked great only change tape twice
I have used the stop block clampled to the fence method for 30 years and have never had a piece of offcut thrown back at me, The piece cut off always moves away from the blade. I think the ‘L" shaped peice clamped to the fence is better than the double sided tape idea. but as always there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Making up problems that don’t exist so you can make a video
Great tip~!! Thanks~!
I’ve used a 4” L-shaped spacer with a clamp for 50 years, and have NEVER experienced a kick-back.
For really long pieces, I prefer my miter-saw.
If you installed a couple of strong magnets on the bottom of the block, you could do away with the tape.
Simple, yet, very handy tricky! Very nice. Just got my first ever table saw and made a cut using the fence and miter jig. I cut a piece for testing that was around 2 inches. It was indeed bouncing back and forth between the blade and the fence. Luck I had those blade guards (with acrilic top and etc..)
Muito bom, obrigado! Abraço (Robertson- Brasil).
Instead of the double stick why not rig something up with the left miter slot? If the piece needs to be longer the keeper will be on the right of the blade anyway.
Brilliant!
What kind of tape are you using and where do you find it?
Delta Unifence
so wonderfully simple
Great tip!
Sorry but can’t see any advantage to this at all. An L shaped block clamped to the fence is far quicker to set up, always handy and above all a lot more stable, especially if you are doing many pieces at different lengths.
Ingenious. But why not countersink a Neodymium magnet into the bottom face and let anchor your wood block as well?
Nice clear, concise explanation. Much appreciated.
Cool hack!
This perfectly highlights the difference between intellectual people and smart people. Not intended as an insult to either type, but they’re not the same.
Just get a strong magnet. I keep the surface of my table saw slightly oiled to prevent rust. Tape does not stick to it.
Accurate and convenient
Great tip mate. It would be even more perfect if it was made with a switchable magnet. Time to whizz down to the toolshop methinks
Simple but useful, and a whole lot safer. What’s not to like? BTW, looking at your clamp handle made me think of Rob Cosman’s hockey tape trick.
Avoid the double sided tape and make a small square with magnets inside that can lever up or down to unlock/lock the square in place. Similar to what machinists often use for like movable lighting and such. Keep the screw for adjustability. Neat
3/4 inch(your first example) is more than enough to prevent kickback for anything shorter than length of the blade above the table (like in your narrow ply) if you start thinking about forces that the blade applies to a piece. When you cut the blade applies down pressure and push away side pressure on the piece. Once the piece is no longer supported (cut off) the blade will push the piece away because it is the path of less resistance. The only way when a kickback can happen is when the piece touches backside of the blade (lifting up) without ability to move sidewise (supported by the fence) thus the path of less resistance will be towards to you.
Also when you cut something wider than blade it is very awkward to use the miter. There are better and safer ways
Fucking…….brilliant. I absolutely love simple, elegant solutions like this. Thank you!
Simple but effective dig your tips. Thanks for sharing
I like your hack, but I’ll raise you one. See if you like this one. Forget the factory fence. Use only the mitergauge, but with an added on, extended fence. It’s made of 3" X 3/4 " straight stock, hardwood or baltic plywood, about 24" to 30" long and attached to the right about 6" to 8" from the blade. You first make a kerf in the fence at that point which become your reference for all your cuts, because it’s visible! Then, for short lengths you clamp stop on the right side where ever, and run your pieces which are pushed past the blade as they stackup. Perfeectly safe from twisting and jammimg between the factory fence, since it’s way over to the far right. Make sense?
Another quick easy and inexpensive idea. And adds a level of safety. Thanks for sharing
Thanx
use a strong Magnet
BRILLIANT! 😁
Nice tip, thanks
Great tip!