The Radial Arm Saw (Safer and Better than a Table Saw)
The Radial Arm Saw (Safer and Better than a Table Saw)
This video demonstrates proper and safe use of a radial arm saw for both cross cutting and ripping. It also provides a number of previously unappreciated reasons why a radial arm saw is a better tool for a small woodworking shop than is a table saw.
been using a radial arm for 40 yrs. set up with run out table of 12′ on either side of blade. Routinely rip 2×12′ never a problem. I like to tweek my cuts, and seeing the where the blade is entering the wood is an advantage to me. Speed of set up , there is no comparison. Admission: I have all my fingers. And you can make lap joints in just a few seconds.. Never had a table saw, but I am considering getting one. But will never give up my old radial arm.
I love this video!Keep them coming.
I own two radial arm saws a ten in craftsman and a nine in DeWalt both can do everything I ever need and is way safer than a table saw
Well.. Sir.. I do not beleive u will ever use a table saw.. U never used one.. And u will never know the difference..
May be you are not making fine wood working.. An armm saw is an arm saw.. It was made for a purpose.. U cannot demand more from a machine that was build for certain applications.
Is that a blue lodge apron??
Great video! What blade is that? I just got a new to me radial arm saw and it needs a new blade. I will mostly be using it for rippping
I hear the vacuum, see dust flying, but do not see where the dust is captured. Hmmm
Thanks for this video! I’m 27 and I’ve been using circular saws and hand tools since I was little but I’m now getting more interested in the things that are possible with bigger equipment. My dad has a brand new craftsman radial arm saw he got in the 90’s before I was born and never even used once! He’s one of those guys that can’t pass up a good deal at Sears. It has a digital read out, super cool! I just got a new battery for the LCD and I plan to learn as much as possible before putting the blade on and starting to cut. Your video has been very helpful. Thanks my friend!
Thanks for creating this video and providing the insights you have gained over so many years. I hear so many negative comments about RAS’s and yet they were so well used for so many years. As a new wood worker I have to question the logic to discarding tried and tested ideas, equipment or practices. My question then is what can a table saw do that an RAS can’t and what does an RAS do that a table saw can’t. As a example, can an RAS practically cut the bevel for a raised panel cupboard door. Again, thank you.
INCA (Sweden) crosscut saw-
Very interesting video – thanks for posting. I’ve never given the RAS much thought over the years, and not because I’ve heard that it was dangerous. If not paying attention to what you’re doing, ALL tools in the shop are dangerous.
I fully and totally agree when you say that a little fear of your saw is a good thing. I know this from experience. Complacency when using any cutting tool is a really bad thing. I was using my jointer one day and took off one of my fingernails. I’m so lucky that I didn’t lose the top of my finger. Since then I still have a bit of fear when using the jointer and table saw. You can be sure that I’m very much aware of what I’m doing because of that fear. It keeps my head in the game.
If I were starting all over putting together a shop I would get a good radial arm saw and a Makita track saw first thing. After a while I would add a good bandsaw, probably an 18 inch Laguna/Jet/MiniMax. Those 3 saws could cover ALL my cutting needs. I might add a cabinet saw or sliding table saw at some point, maybe.
I have heard that when in-ripping, one should feed the wood from left to right, when out-ripping, right to left. This author indicates just the opposite. He seems to be correct.
The argument for the former is that the wood does not have the tendency to be lifted when the cut starts, but this tendency is a mere illusion. The tendency to lift the wood at the start of the cut can easier be overcome with vertical hold-down, and pressure from the hands as the wood is still mostly intact and uncut and the hands are still far away from the blade. Vertical hold-down on the outfeed side does not interfere with pushing action at the infeed, and can be a couple of inches away from the cutting teeth of the blade.
The tendency for the wood to be lifted at the end of the cut is far more of a concern. Vertical hold-down on the infeed side may work but tends to interfere with pushing action at the infeed, and will have to be quite close to the blade.
I have had my radial arm saw for over 25 years and I love it.
these saws aint cheap in the uk,i had mine given me last year just trying to set the table up good vid i’m learning.
Both the TS and the RAS are dangerous. They are both the most dangerous tools in the shop. This is because a circular blade is a two-dimensional cutting tool, thus binding is a concern. Both are safe only with caution and respect for their power and two-dimensional cutting characteristics.
Mike, awesome video! I recently repaired the motor of my De Walt and will be putting your cutting advice to good use! I’ll will be using jigs on all future non-ninety degree cuts. Thank again!
Keep in mind that most people will find a tool they do not use and have never owned much more dangerous than a tool they have 45 years experience with. One could go point by point on how any saw could be very dangerous when used improperly, without knowing the physics behind what is going on or best practices for safety.
I don’t limit myself to any one tool. I have a couple table saws and a couple sliding compound miter saws; I also own a radial arm saw, exclusively for dados and rabbits. A big preventer for reducing the chance of a climb cut with the radial arm is always using a blade with a negative rake angle which leads to a much less aggressive cut than some higher rake angle blades usable in table saws. I like the information but it is definitely skewed towards radial arms. If you like them great, use them, just recognize their limits, especially if you use sheet goods, though they can be broken down to manageable sections with a track saw. I’ve never been a big fan of the lack of guards on most radial arm saws though I understand it as there’s have to be quite large to accommodate dado stacks, I’m also not a big fan of the sacrificial table, though with dado cutting this doesn’t really apply. Tools are like knowledge, you usually can’t have too much or too many; I prefer having the best tool for the job which in woodworking usually is more than just a radial arm.
Thanks for this. I’m currently refurbishing my grandfather’s RAS so this is a good primer before I start cutting.
Dewalt mitre saw have killed the radial arm saw market . You can have them for a song these days . Like nobody wants them anymore . Like the old Hammond saw.
I just bought one off Facebook marketplace now my YouTube is lit up with radial arm saw videos lol
As you mentioned , you don’t cut plywood sheets. And unless you like to buy used equipment , new RAS are in the $3000 to $6000 price range. A high-quality contractor table saw and sliding miter saw can do everything your RAS can do and more for thousands less. It may work for you, but the industry and most woodworkers have moved on to better equipment that costs less and can do more.
Super thanks
Just investigating RASs ahead of making a purchase and so your video has been invaluable. Thanks!
I really enjoyed your procedure rega table saw verses radial arm saw operation.
I have learned things that I didn’t know.
I found your ideas about cutting angles very informative regarding moving the arm to do so.
Also that your table top isn’t marked with saw marks.
Thank you very much.
i have the same saw. would have liked to seen the dust collector shroud, as a radial arm throws sawdust in 3 different directions.
I think a lot of people have replaced radial arm saws with sliding miter saws. You can’t rip with them but they will cut quite a wide board, some almost as wide as a radial arm.
Great demo, well thought out. Agree with your emphasis on care and safety. Wear your safety glasses!
As a hobbyist I only use mine for cross cuts and trenching, everything is clamped down and I have a very secure fence. a little fear leads to a healthy respect. correct maintenance is also critical.
Very emotional
How many teeth do you use on that blade?
A very good video. Well presented and most of all, if your shop is limited on space this is a very feasible option. I am putting together a wood shop and my main concern was how much space is my table saw going to take up. My building is a 20×24. After watching this wise old man, getting a good radial arm saw.
Both of these tools are disasters when it comes to safety.
Do you have a video on how you made the new table with the 2 pieces of MDF?
I just got a saw and the table is toast. Thanks.
Great info on the RAS. I agree with what you’ve said but would add that most RAS have an adjustable splitter (the anti-kick back panels are attached to it). This greatly reduces ejection. Great video!
thanks! and good to meet y’all! i just cleaned one up that i got for free when i was cleaning out a garage and needed info. thanks again!
I’m not all that sold why I wouldn’t just use a table saw and miter saw, also a tablesaw has a splitter / riving knife (unless somones too old and you take it out)
This is absurd lmao
I can appreciate that Mike has been able to fully utilize his radial arm saw. However, he as also had 45+ years working with this saw. I would not recommend any beginner using this saw the way he uses it.
God Bless you Bill. So good to see with all 10 fingers. Andre Lopez (you may remember me) 🤣
I use a radial arm saw I inherited from a relative’s estate (you’ve been cutting longer than I’ve been alive old timer).
I built a long (16 feet) workbench with a long fence and a precision trak and stop guide. My vise goes on there too and I use the area above and below the vise and saw for storage. But I only use my radial arm saw for cross cuts of 2x lumber or small pieces of sheet goods. The radial arm saw is very precise once it’s dialed in.
For rip cuts (and long cross cuts) of sheet goods I just kneel on the floor with the wood on a piece of foamboard insulation and use a handheld circular saw. I have a sled for it to ride on and it’s pretty good but still not quite as accurate the radial arm saw.
Thank you for some great explanations and tips.
I just live this video and share it with people who whine about RAS’s. Are you aware of a decent video on maintenance or adjustments? Thank you!
Thank you for the video makes me feel a lot safer using mine
That is just plain dumb and you are going to get someone hurt or killed. A radial arm saw is incredibly dangerous. I used to have one and they can run up on a piece of wood and cut your arm off if you are unlucky enough. If you set it up for ripping it can kick back and impale you with a piece of wood. They are cheaper than table saws yet you hardly ever see them for sale any more. Radial arm saws are very dangerous. BTW cheap tablesaws are also very dangerous.
If you use a push stick you won’t get "ejection"
If you set the riving knife and crown guard correctly and use the saw correctly you won’t get kickback or lift.
What is it with yanks that makes so many use a tool erong snd then blame the tool even it bites.
3 minutes snd I’d seen enough.
"I know eat I’m doing" 🤣🤣🤣
Lots of great info… but the 45 degree jig would only work if every cut was at the end of the stock. But you REALLY know your saw. Thanks
Thank you – I feel more confident about getting a RAS now. For the most part, because you have made very clear what to *avoid* doing! And why. Table saws always make me nervous, which is not in itself a bad thing. As you say, most times with a RAS your hands are clear of the blade. Thanks again; also for using notes, and not umm-ing and err-ing your way through! So much easier to watch and appreciate.