Thin-kerf vs. full kerf- Don't choose the wrong table saw blade!
Thin-kerf vs. full kerf- Don't choose the wrong table saw blade!
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? You mean 20% thinner, 25% thicker, or you mean 25% thinner, 33% thicker. Definately fuzzy maths.
got a sub! You are great!
Im planning to rip 2 x 6 mahogany into 1 x 6 (and using a thickness planer) for deck boards. I have a 24T thin kerf. Any comment on this would be helpful.
im not going to lie, the comments in the video had me.
Well stumpy, I knew this. Thanks for reminding me of the things I’ve known, but have slipped my mind over the years, Love the name and your videos.
My Skilsaw is not underpowered. I find that larger blades tend to vibrate more at the extremes. I am also running a 7 1/4" rather than a 10".
I have a dewalt 8 1/4 contractor saw and before I bought a new blade I was getting circular-saw-quality cuts..(brand new saw) I bought a full kerfed, Ridge Carbide Super blade, per stumpys recommendation.. The saw runs it just fine and I am getting glass smooth cuts if I do my part. This blade outperforms this saw, which has no problem pushing the full kerf. Thanks!!
having really dry wood is really the best advice ‘ i try to buy and dry my pt for those door jam replacements on those junk stanley doors that rot out in no time 350 dollar pieces of shit
I’m going to watch this again… I got so fixated on the numerous pop-up comments, I didn’t pay much attention to the actual presentation! Great job, I needed a good laugh..
Give your saw the best possible chance for success. If you have the choice run it on 220v vs 110v, keep your blades clean, make sure you align your riving knife correctly & use the correct blade.
Basically a compilation of what James brought to light.
Your collection of tools behind you is impressive, how long have you been collecting?
When I want thin kerf, I use a thin kerf 7 1/4 inch blade. At 1/16 inch, very little dust. At 7 1/4 inch, no significant warp. Great for a lot of the rough woodworking that I do, but takes a back seat for the finer jobs. Thanks for the ever informative talk.
My dad left me his "Craftsman 10" (1950s era) table saw when he passed away. That gift got me going in woodworking over 15 years ago, and I will always have a warm place in my heart for that saw. That being said, I went out and bought a very nice 5/8 arbor Freud blade for that same old saw, and was disappointed in the saw’s performance. The new blade was too heavy for the old saw’s scrawny engine. A few years later, I bought a recent Jet table saw, reinstalled that Freud red blade on the modern saw, and the results were jaw-dropping: a nearly-planed finish on all cuts. An older saw engine may require a lighter blade.
My saw may be powered by a squirrel but that’s a darn strong squirrel!!! Lol. Good video
Regarding the feed rate, in the Jeep world, we have a saying: "As slow as possible, as fast as is necessary" when rock-crawling. That minimizes damage in the event that a vehicle slides while on a rock, causing a slower speed impact with the undercarriage (or side) of the vehicle. The table saw is the opposite: "As fast as possible, as slow as is necessary". The solution to an underpowered saw that always burns your wood is to get a better saw to cut the stock that always burns. The ‘underpowered’ saw might still be useful for smaller projects, and a small crosscut sled, or miter sled, could work very well on that smaller saw.
I’ve got an old Hitachi compound miter saw (2005). I put a replacement Diablo blade on it but the blade doesn’t tighten on the spool. The blade spins independently of the motor shaft. Any suggestions?
Planning a simple project this year in the "driveway workshop", and this has to be the 3rd Stumpy Nubs video I landed on while looking for information on stuff. Don’t know why i didn’t subscribe sooner LOL. BTW you had me at "less math" too.
Always great information
I bought a used, inexpensive table top table saw on FB marketplace. I then spent twice as much on a beautiful full kerf, glue line blade. I think I made the right decision.
One little quibble. "As with most things in life, the truth is somewhere in the middle." Then referring to what works for one person doesn’t necessarily….
Long ago, I figured that the middle as centre of a balanced argument often leaves everyone frustrated. And, eg, a tightrope walker has a long pole with weights at the extreme ends. Having been asked to chair and lead a community forum in inner city east London, I realised it was usually best to help realise that their extreme experience could well be valid in certain circumstances, while the other person’s view was appropriate in other circumstances where the first person realised their thing didn’t work best, even if it could work adequately.
This is, I think, where the video will go after 1 minute. I’ll watch rest in a minute.
Example shirt collars: 50 people have size 14, 50 have size 18, stock 100 at the middle size of 16 – and sell none.
Had no experience, just the new guy who asked a couple of good questions at his first public meeting. I led it my way, letting folks vent before they exploded, even if going off-topic from agenda. We had a brilliant 15 years dealing with politicians, developers, council officers, and each other. The truth, in much of life, is not a point in the middle, where people fight or it’s the centre of a tug-of-war rope, but a pragmatic spectrum – as you say before walking away, "It depends". Actually, a great video of a very well presented argument. And watts or horsepower in a cheap motor puts less power into the blade teeth than a high quality motor with a lower rating.
Was taught, 50 years ago, at school, to use ideal blade for each job and learn to plan my work for fewest blade changes. And to keep them clean. They last longer. If you have to use thin blade, make lots of shallow passes
One point worth remembering in this discussion, is that anytime we are talking about "heat" we are really talking about motor horsepower being robbed from cutting wood to making wood hot.
I find having big boogers very satisfying
Great video. Lots of info and lots of laughs.
I’m standing puzzled at the Home Depot the other day trying to select the Diablo blade for my 10in Delta contractor. I didn’t want to make the wrong decision since I don’t have a ride to get to Home Depot. When I do return I will get a full like I currently have. Blade definitely needs to be changed thank you for the information.
It’s awesome to look across the timeline of the channel and see the transition from stumpy to the teacher you are now. I am very knowledgeable because of you and the community and make my few hours a week in the shop all the more safe, productive, and fun!
Just for the starters you need 30% less power with thin kerf, second you get 30% less sawdust, third you consume 30% less electricity, 4th you don’t overheat your saw motor, fith it it less stressful to the material sheet. The cons is that the tooth are going to degrade 2 times faster than full kerf. but good news, new carbide tooth are much more less expensive, you pay for them a third or a 4th of the full kerf chips price
the talk is informative,the commentary that keeps appearing is a distraction.
New to this… so… what’s a kerf?
What the thought on ripping thicker hardwoods? Say your stock is 4" X 36" X 24" you want to rip it into 1.5"X 4" 36" strips should have the blade 1/2 to 1" at a time flipping the stock each time or just say raise the blade to 2.25" flipping only once using a 40 to 50 tooth X 10" blade? Anyone.
Pitch is one thing , you want is a hollow ground compared to a saw wit set .
Great video. Question. I’ve been having a hard time at the big box stores trying to figure out whether the blades are full kerfs or not. Obviously the ones labeled thin kerf are not. If it is not labeled "thin kerf" are the chances good that it is full kerf? Also a flat cut would be nice too. Do you or anyone else out there know of a halfway decent blade that has one or both of my needs that doesn’t cost a fortune. I just want something to cut 1/8 or 1/4 box joints on my table saw and I would rather pay less and not have it stay sharp as long. An actual model number would be great. Thanks!
0:35] What!!! Screaming hard and fast on the internet doesn’t make it true??? It’s always worked for me.
Great information James. Thanks for sharing it.
Less saw dust=fewer boogers now that explains it I ve always wondered where my boogers went………..Bottom line use the right blade and your boogers will go away………Ya right OK I got it.
Great information! Thanks!
“A Squirrel and a half!?”
Less math. YES!
Squirrel and a half 😂
I alway hear that " with the blade raised to max you get more blade flex" . But with the blade raised you are cutting closer to the center arbor and with the blade lowered you are cutting farthest away from the center ? Seems backwards to me.
Stop making abusive fat jokes about yourself. LOL!!! Gullet.
I’ve rarely laughed so hard watching a woodworking video. Well done, sir.
My jobsite saw never bogs down. Bosch makes a good one. It’s 4hp btw
It never ceases to amaze me that people get angry when people see a topic like this and disagree. It is ok folks you are right for your use cases.
Once again, very informative and helpful, forget those guys that don’t like the pop up jokes, keep them coming; anybody can make a woodworking video but yours are top notch and enhanced by the humor!
Love the on screen captions
Let me explain, I rip bee hive parts out of 2×4`s it can make a difference of getting 3 top bars or 4 out of 1 2×4 or 5 or 6 instead of 4 or 5 bottom bars. 2x4s are usually free enough to keep up with my beehive frame need.. Critical with that gold plated 2×4 hive parts wood.
I use a full kerf on my 12" miter saw, 10" table saw rip blade, & combo. I use a 10" thin kerf 80 tooth cross cut but use blade stiffeners.. not 100% sure it makes a difference