Watch This Before Buying an Expensive Table Saw Blade
Watch This Before Buying an Expensive Table Saw Blade
Can you tell the difference when using a cheap table saw blade versus an expensive one? In this video I will compare an expensive Forrest Woodworker II table saw blade to an cheap Diablo blade. Which one will win?
*Awesome Videos To Watch Next*
*Videos To Watch Next*
Watch This Before Buying Video Series Playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWVlC66wUw8Z6ShbQU8HSEt9sPKj_ZNHy
Clean and Protect Blades and Table Saw Top: https://youtu.be/oCpHWxNZT58
Zero Clearance Inserts for Saws: https://youtu.be/Dd4U4WmVQs4
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*Tools used in This Video (affiliate)*
Diablo Table Saw Blade: https://amzn.to/2NEjzRa
Forrest Woodworker II Blade at Amazon: https://amzn.to/3u7hyO8
Forrest Blade at Rockler: https://www.rockler.com/10-x-40t-atb-forrest-woodworker-ii-general-purpose-blade
Zero Clearance Insert for Delta Table Saw: https://amzn.to/2NEjIUI
Variety Pack Exotic Woods: https://www.wtghardwoods.com/variety-packs
Delta Table Saw: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562
0:00 Intro
1:34 Differences in Diablo vs Forrest
3:32 Cutting with a Diablo Table Saw Blade
6:12 Cutting with a Forrest Woodworker II
8:36 Forrest Blade Worth It?
9:22 Which Blade Do I Use?
10:23 Which Table Saw Blade Should You Use
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Yes. The Forrest is worth it. Logic would dictate the Forrest can be sharpened perhaps 20 times, the Diablo is throwaway.
I was very disappointed that you did not show the same woods side by side, with close-ups.
These two blades aren’t the same type and application. One is thin and one is full. Your saw doesn’t have enough nut for the good blade
There’s a "Very-Cool-Tool" that you really should invest in. It’s an extendable, shielded, neodymium magnet that Will extend, and reach down to very bottom of the lower guard of your table saw, and retrieve ‘that-dang-nut’ from the nether regions of your table saw. The 1st time you use it, it’ll pay for itself in frustration- saved. You’ll love it. Trust me.😎🤓😇🤠
So I’ve been a custom woodworker for 35 years now and the difference between a forest blade and a Diablo is that the thicker kirff forest is that it will cut straighter and dissipate heat better so it will make more cuts before it gets dull. Also you can sharpen the forest blade roughly 10 times at a cost of $20 per sharpening so way better value.
The burning is caused by the speed that you feed it
Diablo #1 with me, but im a beginner woodworker.
DIABLO. I’ve used them happily with the results.
Yes the Forrest is worth the extra. I have been using one since 1992 as a hobbies t and have never had to sharpen it. I still get smooth crosscuts
Was the Diablo thin kerf? I’ve had 2 wood worker 2 blades that I’ve literally used for 15 years. Fantastic blades. I like Diablo blades as well, but sorry, this is a poor comparison.
I’m running a pm2000, if I were on a 110v saw I’d probably always run thin kerf, but I wonder about a deflection comparison.??
A quality product is the best alternative.
Like optics
Bushnell legends 100 hunting grade
Leopold the military issue 500 +
then Leica or swavaroski 2,000 + serious user
Power tools
ryobi diy
Dewalt apprentice
Milwaukee tie pro
Makita tie pro
Hilri expert
Festool craftsmen
To purchase a quality over pricey will service you well.
I’ve dabbled in woodworking most of my life, but since retiring in mid 2020, I’m doing a lot of it. Most of my entry level machines have been replaced with better quality ones over the past year and a half. Cutting rabbets, dados etc., with an ATB blade always bothered me because of the grooves and ridges profile in the bottom of the cut. After extensive YouTube viewing, I ordered one of the Forrest blades with a flat tooth grind and full (1/8”) kerf, which I think is the same blade you used in this test. The thing cost me $170+, and I was thinking that this thing better be good for that kind of price! It cuts great, nice flat bottom in the kerf on non through cuts, and I really like having a blade that cuts a 1/8” kerf because setups are easier to plot versus the thin cut decimal width kerf. That being said, after spending a considerable sum of money upgrading my shop, I can honestly say that this blade is the only thing I have buyers remorse over! I’ll never do it again, and I’ll never send it back to them for sharpening because, at the least, it’s going to run $50, and the info they send with the blade says that if they have to do “repairs” on things they see as worn or damaged such as a chipped carbide, the price rockets quickly! Yea, it’s a quality item, but $170? I think not!
I watched another Youtube channel that talked about using that Forest blade for cutting dado slots (still have to run through several passes) but it cuts very square dado slots. Maybe even try a rabbet joint, you’d see the squareness of the corner.
Lifetime – Forrest River blade $150, plus 4 sharpenings @approx $40per = $310. vs 4 new $40 Diablos (no sharpenings) = $160. Diablo wins by $150. AND your blade isn’t in transit half the time. You always have one new blade in the saw. PLUS, at the end, you’ll have four Diablo blades for utility or just buy the second Diablo and have it sharpened while your new one is in the saw.
I feel like the way you were cutting is why it bogged. I have always learned the larger material should be between the fence and the blade, unless the smaller strip is your end workpiece and the rest is scrap. Your saw was working much harder with that strip binding up between the fence and the cut-off
yes. accuracy- quality of cut- tear out
Apples and not apples, the blades have different specs, so not sure what your test says. For the high end cabinet maker, the Forrest blade is going to provide consistent quality results. The Diablo blades are nice and likely an upgrade for a stock blade on an entry level saw, but the Forrest are of the highest quality, made in the US, and built with longevity/sharpening in mind.
I am a Diablo combo blade guy because they are sharp: they are thin kerf; they use a very good anti-virbration system (does not ring like a bell): can be resharpened (about $20); and often on sale. Good video
Pocket screws and cheap blades. Sounds about right.
Next time try something of quality. Like a FS Tool 22250 rip blade.
I work at Forrest manufacturing and we do servicing on all blades if there’s not too many broken tips..
You are 100% correct on the blade choice when you can buy 4 of the cheaper blades that perform well for the projects you make, I feel like that status of saying "My blades are $150 each" just proves the old saying that a "Fool and his money are soon parted" My dad always taught me do make do with what have. Great comparison!
Burn marks on a ripped piece of wood are usually due to the fence not being perfectly aligned with the blade. I have been through several low cost blades on my table saw and nothing cuts as consistently clean over time as a Forrest. But it will still leave burn marks if my rip fence is in need of adjustment.
The 150 dollar blade is only worth it if it truly cuts well and last exponentially longer than a normal cheaper blade lasts.
Excellent job, and comparison!
Well done!
The burning and resistance you felt with the Forrest blade was in part because your blade was too low. The rake etc of the Forrest is designed for more height. You can read more about burning on the instruction sheet that came with the blade. The rubber coating on the blade teeth is to prevent nicking or cracking the carbide teeth. I did a comparison and the Forrest consistantly gave me a sanded smooth edge. The Diablo was ok, but just not as smooth. Thanks for the vid.
Hi, I am just curious, when changing your blade you seem to struggle because it is so tight , are you raising the blade all the way to give yourself more room to maneuver when removing the nut?
How to clean your saw blades: https://youtu.be/oCpHWxNZT58
I will not use a forest blade. I’ve bought one at a wood show in Indianapolis a few years back. It never lived up to even my lowest expectations. Not worth it even if it were the same price as my Freud or Diablo blades.
12 inch carbide blade 25 bucks, I have run a bunch with no problem. Made in China of course, I’m happy
gotta agree with a few of the comments pointless test without the same TPI
Diablo blades have there place and they are ok. I use them on my Miter saw. But Forrest blades are far superior. I never use anything but Forrest blades on my delta table saw. I use full kerf blades and they don’t bog down the saw at all. I love these blades and have used them or 35 years. They are worth every penny.
Rip with a rip blade, not 60T ATB. Try Freud 24T flat top for ripping to compare with Forrest.
When comparing tear out, it’s not really a fair comparison between a 60 and a 40 tooth blade.
Yes, the *Red Devil* blades! (Freud also does an industrial flavor, about 30 – 50 % more than the devils)
To me it looked like the kerf of your blades were different. The Forest is taking a lot of wood out at one time (better for more hp saws) The Diablo was taking out less wood… The thin kerf will help when you only have a 2hp saw or less. This is why I bought the Spyder blade rather than the manufacture blade. Thanks for doing this video!
It will be better for sure but is it worth it? Depends on what you are making I guess.
Now let’s see you crosscut with both blades. Bet the more expensive blade destroys the cheap blade on that test.
No buy 4 Diablo blade for that price
I enjoyed your video. My reason for buying expensive blades like the Forester is because there sharpenable. If you signed a Diablo off to be re sharpened the person that gets it is first going to laugh and second do a minimal amount of sharpening. Diablo and other blades in that price range use thinner carbide with a much looser grain structure. They really aren’t meant to be re sharpened. When you look at the cost of sharpening the Forester makes much more sense. It’s a tougher Blade with better carbide. Sometimes the old adage is true! You get what you pay for
As a rank amateur, I think I’d rather see this done with identical blades just because I don’t know what I don’t know about a number of things mentioned in the comments by others. I think the last blades I bought were Dewalt, and they seem to be working quite well. I am going to try the Diablo next time around. Thanks for the review though. It has caused me to look more into what makes one blade better than another, as well as the various uses they are suited for.
I’ve been running the Forrest Woodworker II on my tables saw for years. I own 2 and when they are both dull I send them to Forrest to get re-sharpened. So they are great blades and in a real apples to apples test they will likely outperform almost any other blade on the market. Last time I sent them out I also sent out my Festool Kapex blade which was an outstanding blade. When it came back it cut like shit. I contacted Forrest and after a bunch of excuses they told me to send it back to them (on my dime no less) They sharpened it again and sent it back to me. It did cut better than last time, maybe as good as a $10 blade…. they ruined it. I complained expecting them to reimburse me for the blade they ruined (also a $150 blade) and all I got was them to drop what they charged me to sharpen it. So I’m no longer a Forrest fan but still run 40 tooth combination blades in the $50 range. To be honest they cut great and there just isn’t enough difference to justify the cost and the headache of sending them out to be sharpened.
Sorry stopped watching the moment i heard tooth count difference
Did you change the riving knife? Was that a good thing or bad thing? I believe the knife needs to be wider than the body of the blade, but narrower than the kerf.
My search was for a combo blade that also leaves a flat bottom for rabbits. Still looking. However, I agree with Diablo choice. I bought a circular blade sharpener at Harbor Freight and it works fine. Did friends 10 & 12" blades and mine and it paid for itself. Expensive blades may run truer but the difference between accuracy and precision in woodworking is arguable. Machinist need precision to 3 or 4 decimal points. Not woodworkers. Woods expansion across grain proves that. Often consistency is more important than accuracy, as with table legs. I run a stabilizer and my Diablo blades and they are smooth or smooth enough.
From a cost perspective you’re not wrong. I get that point. For me it’s like disposable work gloves, nothing wrong with having a fresh pair more often. Why purchase gloves that last a lifetime that you have to maintain and clean. I didn’t like how there was not a control in your video- it wasn’t even a psuedoscience. But your wisdom is correct when it comes to price.
Um..?! ‘Dang!’ 3yrs ago, before I got into the hobby, I bought DeWalt Job-Sight Table Saw for $50.00+ some much needed engine parts I was truly thankful to part with, from one buddy, who’d just got a bigger new Delta. I drove my truck to work the next day, and another work-buddy saw it in the back of my truck, appearing barely used(yes, I had cleaned the crap out of the evening before, and thrown a tarp over it because I had another buyer in mind.(It’s called ‘horse-trade’n for a reason.😎) I sold it for $250.00 with a 3 day old Diablo blade! $200.00 dollars profit and I’d never even plugged it in and turned it on. Though, I’d love to have one like it now😟. I still sold it for $50.00 more than I was gonna originally. Anyway, I’m on the Jesus bus, but there’s no way in hell or God’s green earth I’d give a $150.00 for saw blade that from your test, doesn’t handle pine that well. You may have addressed breakout when cutting small trim pieces, while my mother-in-law was talking in my other ear. Seems like a greater number of smaller teeth provides a smoother cleaner cut, the trade off is it cuts much slower. This is true with my Jig-Saw.
I’ve come to the conclusion that laser cut blades no matter the price are a bit better then stamped ones
For me, Diablo is high-end. I’m not buying a $150 blade. Would have liked to see a comparison using the same teeth count. Would also like to see a comparison between the cheapest blade on amazon and Diablo. Thanks for your videos
What wax do you use? Paste wax
Howdy…
You are both correct and incorrect at the same time as far as which blade is better.
I worked in a shop that built very very high end doors (mostly doors, some cabinetry). These doors were solid mahogany or walnut, 1 1/2" – 4" thick. No pocket holes with these, all mortise and tenon. Each door was around $3000 on the low end and on average about 30 of these doors went into ONE house.
The tablesaw we used was a huge beast. The whole table itself moved, so instead of you moving the workpiece through the blade, the workpiece layed on the table and the table moved the workpiece. It’s probably a $60k tablesaw.
Point is, the saw had a beast of a motor, very very strong horsepower.
I promise you, you never saw a Diablo blade or any box store blade on this thing.
That is where using a high dollar blade comes into play. They are heavier blades, thicker and more robust. The teeth are going to last much longer and keep their sharpness longer and are made from a much higher grade steel. That is what you’re paying for with those blades.
Typically, you’re NOT going to use a blade of this caliper on a Delta, DeWalt or any "contractor" type tablesaw BECAUSE these saws lack the horsepower to spin them "properly". The weight of the blade will bog down your saw, spin the blade slower which in turn, as you noticed, will burn your wood. That’s why your Diablo blade did not burn the wood, it’s thinner, lighter and spun faster. They are specifically designed to be used on "contractor" saws.
So, as I said, you were both right and wrong. The $150 blade is a better blade, just not with "your" saw. The Diablo blade is a better blade for your saw.
What about non through cuts, how’s the dados?