What's the single best table saw blade?
What's the single best table saw blade?
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Where can i purchase it in Europe?
I have a 10" Hitachi table saw and I want to change the factory the 40t blade that came with it. I only use the saw here and there,. which blade do you suggest for me? thanks in advance.
Why is Comibnation Table Saw blade not available in Europe? (any brand)
Man, I’m sorry to ask this, but I have a problem and I hope you can help me.
I have a bread kneading board and it haven’t seen much love last year, even has cat steps marked on it, and I need to clean and sanitize it, but the problem is the board it´s cured with oil, olive oil. I tryed to sand paper it, but I believe I made it worse, can you see any solution. I appreciate your in put, you look like someone who knows this stuffs.
I have a jobsite saw, dewalt DWE7485. It doesn’t support datto stacks, so I have to clean up all my grooves because I currently have a GP blade on it with an ATB. So using a combo blade with a raker will solve this?
I’m a roofer so I don’t use a table saw, but my circular saw stays with a Diablo multi purpose, cuz nails
Very well spoken Steve. Wonderful explanation.
The combo blade’s flat raker tooth is the deal maker/breaker for Me…it means not putting a dado stack on for small (<= 1/4") plywood dados. But, then, I admit to owning more than a couple of other blades….😋
Hey Steve. Love your channel! Wonder if you have any input on this topic as it applies to miter saw blades. Thanks!
Just love your clean easy to digest info. I have been using tools and a table saw my whole life, very very infrequently, and never knew what blade differences meant.
One blade to rule them all?
I want to take your online but I saw you said it’s for not so beginners. I’m completely new to Woodworking but it’s my dreams to build. Abby advice on classes U can take for someone just starting ?
Kick ass
Ah! I consider myself a student much more than a teacher, but feel like I have something relevant to say here.
First, I have found from helping other people that many less experienced woodworkers who are frustrated with the performance of their tablesaw often don’t have it set up right. They get a contractor style used or from a big box store, and they never check to make sure that their miter slots are parallel to their blade. Stumpy nubs has some great info on this, so before you throw out the blade, check your alignment.
Second, cleaning your blades DOES help more often than not. Simple green and a bucket lid, doesn’t have to be crazy.
Third, a big thick boi like Forrest or Ridge Carbide can produce a pretty amazing finish on a well aligned saw. When I first saw it I was amazed. I went in with high expectations and they blew my mind out of the water.
Fourth, unfortunately, if you have a smaller, more available tablesaw, putting a .125in thick blade on there probably isn’t the best use of your limited horsepower. Many inexperienced woodworkers love the idea of thin kerf, but mostly to preserve material, which is typically a hilariously small benefit compared to that it doesn’t require nearly as much power.
And fifth, the configuration I personally liked, and that I recommend to all inexperienced woodworkers, is a decent thin kerf blade and some 4in blade stabilizers. You go down to ~2 5/8in depth of cut, but you can take them off when you need more, and honestly were you really using more than that?
In return you get a nice thin easy-to-cut kerf, maximum material preservation, and comparable performance to the blades that cost as much as your saw does. Those stabilizers will also be usable far and away into your hobby, they aren’t suddenly moot if you get a bigger saw.
For cheap, high quality blades I buy diablo if I’m in a hurry, but if I’ve got time I would buy ITC orange blades from Taylor toolworks. Very good, modestly priced.
I feel like the only real reason to use dedicated blades these days is if you are operating in very high volumes
Thanks for always bringing new school insights! Usually helps us mere mortals save some money! 🤓👍
I used one of those on a colleague’s saw, it was amazing. It’s like hot knife thru butter. I need to make flat bottom occasionally, so my choice was dictated. So combo is best for weekend woodworker like me. Just in case I need to rip a lot of stuff, I can always put back on the 24-tooth blade that comes with the saw. It has 0 miles on it. Changing out saw blade on my saw was not as bad as the old ones. Since it uses ACME thread, it comes off pretty easily and both blade alignments were near perfect (Diablo has better flatness).
Hello, well i want to ask what kind of oil i have to use on a table where will be food prepared. I really need to sand some scratches and re-adjust whole product.
Lacquer is no go, teak oil? – im not sure – manual does not mention it, what then? olive or sunflower? I dont mind redo it after a year, but i dont want to be poisoned by my mistake :O
Thanks anyone who knows..
A blade for all seasons does not exist.
Hi Steve… I’ve recently come across your videos and have now subscribed to your channel – GREAT stuff and very helpful. I’m relatively new to woodworking – metal has been my media – you can easily fix your screw-ups by welding things back together and starting over :):). Just bought a new DeWALT 10" saw and learned from this video the 24t blade it came with isn’t all that good for the majority of cuts I will make. I have one question about blades for general use… since the combo blade also has flat teeth wouldn’t that be a better choice for use in cutting rabbits or dados? – Thanks very much, Larry
Thank you Steve for the information. You made my decision easy watching this video.
Try using 7 1/2 inch blade on table saw/ works good on any stock under 1 1/2 inch thick stock you get half the saw dust/ there half the price/ and a lot less wear and On table saw arbor and motor . The cutt is even better
I mostly agree with this but fir a polished chip out free cut in ply I still find a good 80T can’t be beaten. However as soon as you try a 45 degree cut in anything thicker than 15mm you’ll get burning which indicates not enough waste clearance which isn’t good for the blade or motor. A freud 24T rip blade eats angled cuts but for fine joinery I’ve found it also has too much chip out so fir these cuts I use a freud 40T general purpose which is a good blade overall. I still swap to an 80T for non angled cuts in sheet material to lessen chip out.
Great video. I still prefer cross cut and ripping blades when I need a perfect cut though. "Near perfect" is usually okay most of the time.
Get a good general purpose blade and a good ripping blade. That will cover 99% of what most of you do on a table saw. The general purpose will be in your saw for 90% or more of what you do. The dedicated ripper is for when you need to do either a lot of long rips, or rips through thick material, or very hard woods that you don’t want to risk burns on. Example; I recently switched to the ripper for ripping the 16 2x12s that I made my new workbench out of, that would have been a LOT to ask of the general purpose blade (not to mention the 1.75 HP motor in my saw). You will almost certainly find that you do not need a high tooth crosscut blade if you have a good general purpose AND a zero clearance insert, which you can make yourself if your saw does not come with one If you get a miter saw though, which does crosscuts 99% of the time, then sure, get a good high-tooth count blade for that.
Hi Steve I am on the same page as you are for combination blades. I use the Diablo 10" combination blade on my table saw and compound mitre saw. The Diablo blades are great because they have thin kerf and low vibration. They are worth buying and I have had them sharpened at my local hardware store about $20 to ReSharper. Good video
very well put!!!!
If I had only one blade, it would be a Freud Premiere Fusion Next Generation general purpose 10" 40T. Hands down the best all-’round blade I’ve ever used. And I’ve tried a bunch.
Steve, great video, learned something, thank you, thumbs up!
Thank you 🙏
Hey Steve love your videos and I want to know how your router table from your powered up course is holding up and if you have any tips for building a router table
I remember back in the 90s, my dad used to have a combo blade on his table saw, but if he was working on melamine shelve projects, he would switch to a melamine blade because it produced easier cuts, and he said that he could feel it when cutting. Fast-forward to now, I now use the same system, a combo blade and a quality blade for sheet goods.
Thank You for saving me from insanity – all those blades …..
You are so right on this. Back before the 1980’s, dedicated blades made complete sense. But nowadays blades are designed in a computer before manufacture, so there’s no real need for the ‘everyday’ guy to have to keep changing blades back and forth to get things done really well. 🇨🇦👍🏼
I like the ripping blade because of the straight teeth. I use the fine tooth in my 10" miter and ripping in the 12". I use a finish blade in the table saw.
2:00 is that why my board will practically stop moving on my table saw?
Hi Steve from New Zealand.. This video is very timely… I have just a couple a month ago purchased a bright and shiny table saw and I decided that it would be good to replace the blade that came with the saw with a “more superior” / good brand 80 tooth blade.. But as you mentioned when using it I experienced burn marks and very hard to feed wood through!! I then watched your video and got the correct info and replaced the blade with a 40 tooth general purpose one, (actually the exact same make as the one in your video), boy I instantly noticed the difference… like a hot knife through butter!!
Thanks for your help!
Good comprehensive talk.
Best courses ever!
Interesting to watch a woodworker dive deep into blade science and get it mostly right. Well done
Thanks Steve. As a ShopSmith owner, I’m still trying to find "the right blade" in a 1-1/4" arbor size. Slim pickins.
Thank you for sharing this with us, so many choices. Blades cost a lot of money. From Henrico County Virginia
I had been using one of the Diablo combo blades, and recently (after reading some forum comments, and talking with a sales person) decided to update to dedicated rip cut and crosscut blades. After seeing this video, I now question whether that was really necessary, or if I fell into the trap of "need more tools!"
That said, I think I am still okay with this idea of swapping blades for a few reasons:
1. Swapping blades for different cuts will hopefully put me in a mindset of "slowing down" and thinking about each step of a process, rather than just plowing through a whole bunch of steps (which is when errors or injury could occur).
2. Swapping blades gives one a good opportunity to inspect the blade, clean the blade and the setup, and just make sure I’ve always got my eye on the everything. If one *never* changed blades, it would be easy to ignore what is happening under the throat plate.
3. Probably will get more life out of both blades, if swapping, than out of a single blade, for the reasons Steve noted.
So… that’s that 🙂
How do you keep an archive of all those videos. I see you’ve been putting videos on YouTube for 10+ years! that’s a lot of content. Do you keep the raw footage or just the final cuts you upload to YT?
I need help I’m making a shelf but the wood is a 3/4 by 6 by 28" long and their warped cupwise how do I flatten that
Great video – clear, concise explanation of valuable information!
mandzukic juve fc ⚽️⚽️
🙂🙂
Very informative! Thank you, Steve!
Thanks!
In the end it’s about saving sanding time.