You worry too much about chisel/plane bevel angles!
You worry too much about chisel/plane bevel angles!
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Once again Thanks James!!! Great advice and very helpfull.
Eleven out of ten for usefulness. Thank you! The illustrations were very helpful indeed.
Spot on James. I sharpen my chisels to 20’. Less wedging and sideways movement.
What about end grain?
I feel kinda stupid admitting this, but I’ve always chiseled with the bevel down because I seem to be able to control the depth of the cut better. I only use bevel up when paring.
All very good info… Balance between sharp and edge durability. Keep it sharp (hone often), and the angle does not matter so much. Please give my Regards to Moustache Mike.
Always wondered about this and those really expensive chisels, Mr. Sellers has used a well sharpened $10 set of chisels and an ebay Stanley no4 to do just about everything. Now I get why it works, Thx.
Poplar isnt a softwood. It’s a soft wood.
Thanks, useful information, 👍
Excellent information. Thanks
You get into this with metal lathes too. Its kinda like autism – on a spectrum.
Hi there Stump Nubs🕶️, I really like your channel and videos. Very educational and informative. And I like your improv jokes. Your work shop is very creative a lot of tools. You have alot of hand planners ,WOW. Do you give some away? Because, I could use one or two? I’m just starting in woodworking and I don’t have alot of tools. I could really appreciate a donation to get me up and going in woodworking on a big budget (disability). If you would like to donate, please do. It could very helpful.
But, I like your videos and news letter keep up the good work and keep the videos coming Mr. Stumpy Nubs.
this is the most informative video on angles I’ve seen. Thanks
wow bro you have to many tolls to don’t know anything you wasted you money, let me tell you
What’s all this I’ve read about a 30° bevel and then a 25° micro bevel for planes? I’ve got the 30° bevel but when I use the blade guide for the 25° micro bevel it’s putting the micro bevel on the back side of the bevel and not at the edge. I’ve got it set in the plane to 38mm for a 30° bevel and 50mm for the 25° micro bevel.
Finally someone talked about the clearance angle on the bevel down plane blade. 10 degree clearance angle has been been working fine with the experiments I have been doing for the past month on every piece of scrap wood I could find. The edge retention is better meaning less time to sharpen.
I tend to stick with 35 degrees, just easier to maintain no matter what wood I am cutting a mortise in. Yes some woods take longer but, less time sharpening and more time actually working gets you there faster in my opinion. Especially if you hand sharpen like I do, no grinders or power sharpeners, just stones which takes longer than using powered methods but there’s something satisfying about hand sharpening which I do not know why but I like it lol.
Im a bit disappointed, i thought i could definitely find some idiot troll comments to laugh at….oh well, keep up the good work stumpy 👍
Does anyone have an angle for making easy money ?
a 10 to15 degree back bevel on a bevel down, (45 degree frog) jack/smoothing plane will do wonders on highly figured, tear-out prone hardwoods.
Ok….no I have a question. How do you know which way a plane blade goes…???
Bevel up or down…? I just got an old Sargent jack plane, and an old Stanley plane, not sure what model…
Bevel up plane would be a different story
I am new to woodworking and just received my first plane today. What about bevel-up planes?
Exceptional info, thank you!
Thank you James for creating these videos, if your video’s are scripted it does not come across as so. You leave the impression that you are speaking from personal experience, which makes me and most others feel confident in your lesson. You are a great teacher, I wish I could have learned these lessons years ago. I have spent countless hours trying to get that perfect angle. Thanks again, hope you are doing well.
You just get a frogdog to change your attack.
0:57 Little stumpy nubs?
Thanks a lot for this. Been trying to learn to sharpen for the past 30 years, still not an exact science or results for me. I will give the old hand plane another go and the chisels. Two thumbs up!
I take this with a great grain of salt from a guy who has all those planes on shelves behind him. I still don’t own a plane and want one.
Says the man with 1,000 planes behind him. LOL
There are two horizontal shelves as a backdrop, what are the items on the lower shelf?
Thanks, I was actually over thinking bevel angles. LOL
Hey Stumpy, on a completely unrelated note — how would you feel about doing a shootout review of the different products used to clean and prevent rust on cast iron tool surfaces? To date I’ve tried 3 in 1 oil, Boeshield, WD40, paste wax, and paraffin wax and I’m not entirely happy with any of these solutions.
Thank you! I have been confused by all the advice i have been getting without a good explanation of the physics behind bevel angles. Best explanation i have heard yet!
THANK YOU for this. I thought i was going to lose my mind lately as I’ve been toiling over what angles to use for my planes and then considering after researching I might need more than one set of chisels….
Excellent video! I assume you meant Poplar was a Soft Wood, not a Softwood.
@0:52 "If you did that you would need a 100 planes and chisels" Me: looks at all the chisels and planes in the background.
stumpy you always solve my problems just before I encounter them. Thanks for saving me hours at the grinder I just purchased
Lots of great information as always James. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Much appreciated; happen to have two #4 I’ll use one for soft the other for hardwoods
I love when you draw.
I notice you don’t get into whether to use or not to use secondary bevels. Although it is implied that you do always ‘hone to’ a secondary bevel. It’s not clear from what you say though why one would ‘hone to’ a secondary bevel. I was taught in germany where, generally speaking everything is honed to the same angle that the tool is ground to. So there’s no wobbling about as you learn to hone trying to get the correct secondary bevel….assuming you’re working without a honing guide.
I am making an adapter for chisels and plane blades that will fit on my knife sharpener. I can sharpen really nice edges on knifes, I expect to do the same for my woodworking tools. I like to work in metals and wood.
So what brands would you recommend for a new wood worker who doesn’t have the money to buy a ton of stuff? Could you also do another video, if you haven’t already, on the different types of planers and what they are used for?
When the guy with 2000 planes and chisels says it doesn’t matter, it probably doesn’t!
Don’t tell my wife I don’t need all of my chisels… I have two good sets of Narex chisels… one of which I let feel the slight strike of a mallet. I have several old sets of chisels, some of which I would be willing to cut mortises in really hard wood. Then some spare sets… and then the ugly yellow plastic handle one that I have been known to lend to people because it doesnt matter what happens to it. That last one is the additional chisel that every wood worker needs!
Bloody brilliant 👍👍👍